Boden Boat Plans Australia | More Argie 15 Sailing

Boden Boat Plans Australia

John Read in Cape Town built himself an Argie 15  and has been sailing it a year or two. He has made a video of him sailing it in breezy and gusty conditions on Rietvlei, in the suburbs of Cape Town. John has learned much about his boat and is now very comfortable with her characteristics. In this video she shows some of the speed that these boats manage to achieve.

John is obviously enjoying his Argie 15, which is our most popular design.

The beautiful Table Mountain stands guard over Cape Town and is visible in the background of some of the shots.

Please visit our website at http://dixdesign.com/ for more on this and out other designs.

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Boat Plans Bolger | More Plumbing

Boat Plans Bolger

I finished making all the plumbing connections for the cabins.

99% of the connections are under the sole in the bathroom. This space has turned into a busy area as it has passing through it four fill lines for the water tanks, the shower/sink pump sump, the water supply lines for the two sinks, the drain lines for the two sinks, the drain line for the shower, the "Y" valve for directing the sump discharge, the transport lines for the sump discharge, the 1 1/2" transport line for a possible future macerating type toilet, and the wiring for the sump. I made a valid attempt at keeping this space orderly, and if I had used some more fittings on the drain and discharge lines, I could have kept things really tight but I instead opted for less fittings and more flexible pipe.

Im going to build the shower stall out of tile. Since I was working in this area, I decided to install the backer board for the tile, and the shower pan. Before I installed the backer board, I glued a closed cell foam gasket to the flange of the port light to stop condensation. Once the tile is installed along with the port light, Ill detail the gasket more so it will make more sense to anyone reading. As per a request from the three woman in the house, I built a ledge in the shower stall for a place to prop up a leg.

After making all the connections, I ran the shower sump to verify the flow rate. The shower sump is not going to have enough ass to move the shower water to my proposed gray water tank area ( the rear of the boat). Im going to have to find another area for my gray water holding tank. The best place for this tank is going to be close to the overboard discharge point in the forward cabins. The tank will probably end up in the "V" up against the crash bulkhead @ station #1. I think Ill be able to fit a 40 gallon tank. My other choice is going to be under one of the kids bunks. The problem with going under the bunk, is that Ill eliminate a much needed storage cabinet.

Im ready to sheath the bathroom, the dressing room/hallway, and part of the kids cabin. Im going to have to hold off on sheathing the rest of the cabin until I get the gray water tank installed.




Im going to use a composting toilet, but just in cast it does not perform, I installed a transport line for a future macerating style toilet. I plumbed this in with 1 1/2" sch. for pipe, using pressure fittings. I wanted to stay away from flexible pipe for this application so I had to use a few 45 degree fittings to get the pipe squared back up with the framing as it enters the bathroom area. This 1 1/2" line goes to the rear of the boat where Ill have a black water tank. The folks at Raritan assure me that their toilets can handle the lift and length of pipe just fine.

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Boat Plans Wooden | More mast

Boat Plans Wooden

All my fabrication on the mast is complete and it is ready to haul to the boat yard. That being said, this simple dinghy lifting mast turned out to be quite a bit more work than I  had figured, and I for those who know what Im going to say next means, I used a large bottle of Argon for the welding. I would have never guessed a large Argon bottle would have been consumed, but it was.

Of course, having never done this type of project before didnt help with me getting finished in a reasonable amount of time, nor did my lack of putting a pencil to paper for some design work help much either. The mast step is already welded to the boat, and is comprised of two heavily gusseted pieces of 1/2" stainless plate welded into the heavily reinforced roof framing. The two plates have bores through them that the mast will pin in to allowing it to be easily laid down. The upper pin in the mast will bear the load, and the lower pin will be for locking it in place. In order for the mast to be able to pivot, I laid it out so that there is 1.5" of free space between the bottom of the mast and the step base. Once the mast is stepped and stayed, solid blocking will be wedged between the bottom of the mast and the step base. Because the bushings are going to be TIG welded in to the mast, I had to do a bit of compensating to allow for weld distortion. I decided to bore the bushings .006 over the pin diameter, and as luck would have it, that turned out to be the right amount. The fit is good with no tight spots and every so slight end play. When the pin engages both bushings, there is no side to side play. The lower pin used for locking the mast in place has no bushings welded in place.

The blocking should be 1.5" if I measured once and cut twice correctly.... or is it measure twice and cut once? Because the upper pin is going to bear the load, I decided to weld in heavy bushings to spread carry the load in the masts along with a more tolerant fit. Each bushing is two inches long, with 3/8" wall thickness ( the mast pin is 1.25" SS ).

In order to get the install alignment on the mast step perfect, I decided Id have to weld bushings in the step when  we install the mast. To build those bushings I used some  two inch aquamet prop shaft from the scrap pile at Washington Marine. Gregg at Washington let me pick some scrap pieces for my pins and bushings, and it was much appreciated.  Stainless steel is really nice material to work with on the lathe, and machines great.

Instead of butt welding the shroud and stay plates to the mast, I thought it better to use solid plates that ran through the mast. Eventually a steadying sail will be fit on the mast, along with a paravane rig, so I wanted the plate connection as stout as possible. The plates are 1/2" material, and because I dont really know the final configuration, I drilled what I thought was enough holes in each plate for possible future use. Drilling these holes 1.30" on center allows for shackles to fit next to each other.

A pad was framed at the top of the mast for the radar array along with a spreader bar that will hold work lights, a masthead/navigation light, weather center, and blocks for flags. The spreader bar is large enough antennas if we need.  I bored a two inch hole above the spreader bar for wires to exit the mast and fasten to the spreader bar.

The 4" boom will have an electric winch on it for hoisting a load, and the mast will have another electric winch on it for lifting the boom. The plan is to hoist the load with the boom winch, then raise the boom with the mast winch to get the load over the rail and on to the roof. Well control the side to sided with tag lines. The winches have remote controls, so that should make things a little easier to operate. I"m not 100% sure, but to power the winches, Im going to have a battery on the roof with a small dedicated charger in the wheel house, or possibly a small solar panel to keep the winch battery fresh. Either way, the battery will be in a weather tight box along with the winch fuses and solenoids.  All the winch brackets are in place along with test fitting the winches.
 
The cables used for the mast are 1/4" galvanized. All the shackles and turnbuckles are also galvanized. Because Im always on a budget, I used hour glass type swage fittings to make up my cables. These types of fittings are not as nice as the single pass stainless swage fittings used on sailboat rigging, but theyre for sure in my budget and look much better than cable clamps. I did use stainless steel on the thimbles since this point will see some abrasion. Years down the road when I start doing maintenance and repairs, I hope to upgrade to all stainless.

The next step will be to fit the mast to the step by welding in the step bushings with the mast in place. Once thats complete, well stand her up and be on the right side of having this job close to complete. Im pretty pumped about having a way to hoist loads to the roof. This is going to be big time handy for getting bikes, kayaks, and of course our tender to the roof. I know Ill also be  using this to hoist the welder for the handrail job along with hoisting the handrails. I hear of cruisers loosing tenders to theft because they have too much difficulty getting the gear out of the water and leave it out overnight. I"m hoping our rig is going to make our lives easier.

Cheers

       

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Plywood Boat Plans Australia | Cape Henry 21 Launched in Croatia

Plywood Boat Plans Australia

Dean Ivancic lives in Porec, Croatia. He bought plans from us a few years ago for the Cape Henry 21. He has been working steadily on his boat and reported to me today that he launched her in April. He has sent me some rather nice photos of her under sail. She is still incomplete down below but has all that is needed to sail.

She is named "Scintilla", Italian for "spark", also the meaning of "Iskra", the Croatian name of Deans youngest daughter.

We wish Dean and his family lots of fun and adventures in their Cape Henry 21.

"Scintilla" on one of her first outings.

Pretty from any angle.

Dean has done a nice job of building "Scintilla".

The Cape Henry 21 is surprisingly quick and has delightful manners. These boats prove that a boat doesnt have to be ugly to be fast.

For more on this design and others in our range, go to http://dixdesign.com/.

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Kayak Boat Plans | Didi 950 Hulls Taking Shape

Kayak Boat Plans

The Didi 950 projects of Fred Grimminck in Australia and Mike Vermeersch in USA continue in parallel. Freds build is from plans only and Mikes is from a kit that was cut by CNC router. Both have completed the flat sheet panels of the sides and bottom and are now skinning the radiused parts of their hulls. This is the stage that the hull shape really starts to show.

Some of the photos that I show of these two projects show minor differences, due to building from a pre-cut kit or with the builder cutting all components. Both produce the same boat at the end of the process but they may look a little different at times while being built.

Side and bottom panels all completed, ready for radius to start.

The photo above is of Mikes kit boat, with neat edges at the sheer (where hull and deck will meet). The photo below is of Freds boat with irregular edges at the sheer. This is because the kit panels are supplied with a uniform strip of waste to be trimmed off to the final line after turning the hull over, while the boat built without a kit has the panels inividually cut by the builder and the waste width may vary.

Same stage, Freds boat. Backbone still to be trimmed at forefoot.

The radius is skinned in two layers, made with narrow transverse strips. The first layer lies on the stringers and the doublers of the tangent stringers, fitted between the edges of the side and bottom panels. These edges have rebates pre-cut into them and onto which the second layer will be laid.

First layer of radius being fitted to Mikes boat.

The rebate along the edge of the side panel can be seen in this photo.

Final hull shape starting to become clear.

Construction of the boat in Latvia has now started and the boat in Greece will soon follow. To see more of this design and others in our stock design range, please visit http://dixdesign.com.

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Boat Plans Australia | More flats boat photos from 1982 86

Boat Plans Australia

You can click on the photos to make them full size.

These boats were built in the Florida Keys in Islamorada , and Key largo.

Bert Sherbs 17 Mako Remake

Berts boat. Boy did they make ugly towers back then.

 Mako remake plug ,waiting for mold gelcoat to cure befor laminating.

Mako remake at Bayside Inn which is now the Bass Pro extravaganza in Islamorada. 

Carl Navarreas skiff in my new shop Back Bay Boats in Tavenier Key largo 1985.

Flipping over Hal Chittums Mako experimental after painting. You can see the stringers printing tru the bottom because they are made of wood.

See the boat really was called the Mako experimental.

Glassing in the boxes, look at how narrow the hatch channels were. They had 1/4 in copper tubbing for draining so a real nightmare.

Stern view of Hals skiff, you can see all the glassed over plywood.

Glassing in the sheer overhang with more plywood. This boat weighed a ton and I know that Hal even at that time in his life at 31 knew that if there was a better way he wanted to be part of it.

Inside shot of the cored Sea Craft I built for Dick Negley. This was another boat where I bought a finished boat on a trailer for 800.00 dollars and gutted the boat down to the bare skin. Dick had a lot of good ideas for this boat which was a great project and a great guy to work for. 

Dicks Sea Craft had a 100 gallon fuel tank under the console which could all be removed , the boat had three live wells, a 235 Johnson on the stern with a jack plate toe kick and a full transom across the stern. Because we saved so much weight with the build it could carry a lot of stuff , go fast and shallow for the places he fished in Texas and the Gulf. It is till owned by his friend Dev. This is 1983, the two Mako remakes and this skiff took Lawanda and I 12 months to finish at a set price and time frame.

Bow of Sea Craft

Dick Neglys scooter boat being planked up

 Hull skin on temporary framing ready for outer skin.

My little wedge tunnel for the 200 Merc that was fitted with a jet drive.

Pretty simple boat.

Inside showing stringers going in with Uni S- glass. Any boat that has Kevlar on the inside is wasting your money. E - glass done right will do just great, s- glass is only a little less stiffer than Carbon but a whole lot less in cost. Carbon is great in certain areas and if you have deep pockets then its the go to material for certain projects. All these boats were built using Dion resin which is a polyester and all these boats are still going strong.

Lawanda next to the first half of the skin coat using Kevlar on the out side. The day that Dick first launched the boat he ran over a steel pipe sticking out of the bottom and all you could see was a slight scratch.

Testing the bottom 

Flipped over working on the insides. I will post pictures of this boat fishing when I find the photos.

Our shop Back Bay Boats next to the Tavernier Health Dept. It is an auto body shop now.

Before getting into flats boats I built sailboats, this a boat for Lawanda and I being built next to the Sea Lark building which is now Bass world. 1982

Lawanda and I going out in our Bahamian catboat to set some Lobster habitats . We ate a lot of lobster back then as they were everywhere. This is 1982

We all raced in the afternoons off what is now the Lorrilie resturant. No one was there in 1982. I built these three cats.

Myself and Dave Calvert at Bayside Inn with my new  sailboat hull which I have just built and am moving here to fishing building. Dave was a sailmaker there and went on to help Steve Fosset break the North Atlantic crossing record on Playstation. Little did we know the fun we were going to have down the road from this day in 1980.

One of many little dorys I would build in an evening. 

A 2 part folding row boat I built in an attic in the Bahamas. The boat had to fit through the window.

 I do not know if World Wide Sportsmen tore these down at their place in Islamorada. This was one of many projects that Ray Dye had me do while I worked there .

 So a few more shots from the past. Sure wish I still had the energy I had then.
More to come.

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