Boat Building Plans And Kits | Typical Slotted Aluminum Masts for model sail boat

Boat Building Plans And Kits

photos courtesy of "Larry Ludwig" at www.LudwigRCYachts.com, Ludwig Mfg.

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Boat Plans Bruce Roberts | Men and stuff

Boat Plans Bruce Roberts

Back in the early days of Hells Bay Boatworks while laying on my bed in a hotel room in Atlanta Gerogia in the early morning hours, watching tv I got an idea. I was in this hotel room at 6:00 in the morning wide awake killing time flipping channels waiting to go sell our boats and ideas at the Mark Castlow Shallow water fly fishing and boat show.

These boat show fishing tackle meet the celbrity shows were lots of fun,and a lot of work for me.

Iam not a fishing fanatic like most everybody that comes to these show and buys my boats.

I have worked in and out of this industry for 34 plus years in a world of fishing rods, gear , skiffs and people that I can relate to but look at from an outside view. I have never felt the need to build my own flats skiff, tie my own flies, get up every waking chance to try and catch fish. I have in my younger days really enjoyed sight fishing in my dinghys, never liked trolling or bait fishing. But I do enjoy fishing when I fish. And I like to fish to catch, and to catch to eat. So.. I do fish.

 Watching that morning a fishing show with a couple of guys catching Strippers up north in some basic skiff I noticed that they were using Tibor Everglades fly reels and the two of them were just going on about how they loved these reels. I had meet Ted Jurasick when he had come to us to buy one of our early Whiprays. I really liked his straight way of talking, to the point. He made these reels as a hobby business but being Ted it was a good money making business. His reels were beautiful and really worked well. These two guys were goggo over them.

At the boat shows I met a lot of guys that had over a hundred rod sets in their garages. They bought them slowly so I guess the wives would not notice the $100,000.00 in tackle sitting there .

Lots of guys wanted to buy our boats, they were expensive, most came to the shows to talk to us,get the latest news and would order a skiff a month or so later. At a Castlow show I would be talking non stop for ten hours. 

My idea was this ; what if at these shows I could have a Tibor reel in my hand worth at that time retail 

$540.00 and just say to anyone that walked up , hey buy a boat and get this reel for FREE !

Hal liked this idea. We went to Ted to see how much or how little he could sell them to us. 

Ted liked the idea too. He said he wanted a Guide skiff so would trade them. His price to us for each reel would be $320.00 . To make the reels unique he would machine red handles, and all the parts that were normally black plastic would now be in aluminum like the rest of the reel. To top it off he would engrave our company name and the name of each skiff bought and its hull number. We received if I remember right about 86 reels for the skiff we built him.

At the next show I sold 4 boats with the guy explaining to his wife , "look I got this reel for free and all I had to do was buy this skiff."Guys loved this sales ploy. I say guys here as we only sold a few boats to women.

About three months later we ended up in a marketing deal with Orvis . They approached us wanting to have an Orvis boat available in their catalog. They printed 15 million catalogs a year. They liked our company and boat so much they wanted to be associated with it. They would pay for the photo shoot,

Put our name and phone numbers in a full page ad and all boat sales would go to us. All they wanted was a dark green HBBWs skiff with the Orvis logo on the side. They also would fill our boat up with Orvis fly rods and reels at all the boat shows we went to. The three of us would be put on the Orvis guide plan so could buy their stuff way below cost.

Flip did not like Orvis gear so much. Hal was not a past fan. We recived a bunch of new fly rods which Hal tried out. He said they had gotten their act together . I thought that a company as big and as long lasting as Orvis that was wanting to be associated with us was great. We made the deal. 

We never sold an Orvis boat. 

But tons of averge guys that could afford Orvis stuff came by and were very happy to see us with them.

After this Teds reels were out. Ted understood. 26 of the 86 reels went with boats.

Keep a look out for them. If you have one send me a photo.

Two of mine.

Phil Woodam just sent me these photos of his never used one.

Miguel Morejohn has used his non stop catching fish.

Wish we had fish like this here in the Bahamas.

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Boat Plans Wood | Pictures of International Star Class Yachts under sail

Boat Plans Wood

Photographs by Fried Elliott
PO Box 940010
Plano, TX 75094

email: fried @ friedbits.com

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Wooden Boat Plans Australia | A Drum style model sail winch

Wooden Boat Plans Australia

photos courtesy of "Larry Ludwig" at www.LudwigRCYachts.com, Ludwig Mfg.

==

From: "Stephen Pratt" :

"On the North Coast (Ohio), are using HiTec HS-725 or HS-785 Winches. Bob Luther developed a mechanism to work an endless loop system of sail control. Fits inside the Star 45 with plenty room to spare."

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Boat Plans And Patterns | Star 45 Setting Sail on line How To Sail resources

Boat Plans And Patterns

From: "Don Keeney" <1keyknee@281.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 15:39:26 -0600
Subject: [Star45] Sail Trim

A great place to learn about sail trim and sailing in general.
http://www.sailingusa.info/sail_trim.htm

Don Keeney
Star 45 Class Secretary
--
Outstanding recommendation. Wonderful site. full of photographs and all sorts of instructional materials. Pictures of tells and how to read them:)

Another must place to visit (you can try out your sailing skills):
National Geographics Interactive Sailing:

Master rudder and sail to get your boat going as fast as possible no matter what direction youre sailing in-or which way the winds blowing.

Controls available:

Sail Adjuster: Use the left sliding controller to rotate the sail in relation to shifting wind (shown as arrows). When you cross the path of the wind, your sail will swing to the opposite side.

Rudder Adjuster: Using the right sliding controller, steer to port (left) or starboard (right).


Uncle Dave

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Boat Plans Skiff | modern sail materials North Cloth Industrial Fibers

Boat Plans Skiff

by Peter Mahr and Brian Doyle
http://na.northsails.com/North_Cloth/industrial_fibers.html

Almost every piece of modern sailcloth begins life as an industrial fiber. While the brand names of many of these fibers are well known to sailors, their basic properties are less well understood. The characteristics of these fibers are an important factor to consider when choosing sails for your boat. Over the past few years there have been some significant developments in high performance fibers that have applications in sailcloth. The result is a greater variety of options for performance sailcloth makers and their customers, allowing them to select the blend of performance, durability and cost that best suits their needs.

Polyester
Polyester is todays "classic" sailcloth fiber. It is often called by the Dupont trade name DACRON® although there are other suppliers of polyester yarn used in sailcloth. Polyester is widely used for its combination of reasonably low stretch, good strength, low cost and durability. Because it can be heated and shrunk during weaving to form a tight, stable woven cloth, polyester woven sailcloth remains a good choice for cruising sails and certain racing sails. Polyester is available in many types. Dupont’s Type 52 is a "high-tenacity" premium fiber offering a balance of higher strength, lower stretch and maximum shrinkage. Other premium polyesters, with comparably excellent properties at more attractive prices, are now available from Asian and European suppliers. Their use in sailcloth has increased over the last few years at the expense of Dacron.

Nylon
Nylon is used for most downwind sails because it is strong and light. Nylon is relatively stretchy, allowing it to absorb shock loads and making it easier to fly and more stable in wavy seas than a polyester material would be. Dying this fiber is easier than any other and it is often available in a variety of colors.

Aramids
A popular class of high performance fiber in laminated sailcloth is the Aramids. The most well known aramids are Kevlar™ (a Dupont trademark) and Twaron™ (made by Teijin/Twaron of Japan). Sails made with aramid fiber are lighter than woven Dacron or Polyester laminates, and have greater effective wind ranges. The tradeoff is higher cost and shorter sail life. The stiffer Aramid fiber is more susceptible to sunlight (UV) damage and breakdown due to folding and flogging.

Aramids are produced in a number of different styles, with different balances of stretch, flex strength, weight and cost. High modulus (low stretch) types such as Kevlar 49 and Twaron 2200 are the most appropriate choice for racing sails. A variation of Kevlar called “Edge” was promoted a couple of years ago because it had slightly higher initial modulus. North’s testing revealed that this effect disappeared almost immediately with use. This type has since been discontinued.

Another aramid fiber is Technora, which is similar to medium modulus Kevlar in chemistry and performance. Initially it has a bit higher strength but loses strength more rapidly in UV making it similar in durability in most applications. It is commonly seen with a black coating, which is intended to provide some UV screening.

Vectran
Vectran is a LCP (liquid crystal polymer) fiber sold by Hoechst. Vectran’s stretch resistance is nearly as high as a standard modulus aramid, and it is somewhat stronger when new. It differs from aramids in its chemistry and has somewhat better flex resistance as long as it is shielded well from UV. Under UV exposure, it degrades more rapidly than aramids and far faster than Spectra/Dyneema.

Carbon Fiber
First used successfully in the 1992 Americas Cup, carbon fiber laminates provide exceptionally low stretch and light weight at the expense of higher cost and somewhat shorter life span compared to an aramid sail. Careful R+D and on the water testing is critical with this fiber. Carbon is available in a wide variety of types, only a few of which can tolerate the flexing seen in normal sail use. Laminating techniques are also very critical to get the available high performance as well as to achieve the best possible durability. Experience over that last few years on top boats with 3DL carbon and carbon/aramid sails has been very positive and the fiber is seeing increasing use by more types of boats.

Spectra/Dyneema*
Spectra, and its European counterpart Dyneema, offer even lower stretch, higher strength, better UV resistance and much less strength loss in flex than Kevlar. However, Spectra/Dyneema sails stretch (creep) under long-term load, which makes them unacceptable for racing sails. After considerable development, this fiber is now used with excellent results in sails for large performance cruising boats.

* Note: We use the somewhat awkward ‘Spectra/Dyneema’ reference since we employ the two fibers almost interchangeably and sometimes in the same piece of cloth

PBO
At the top of the theoretical performance list is PBO, a fiber made by Japanese company Toyobo. This fiber has been used for a number of years in both 3DL and paneled sails. It has proven to be somewhat better than an aramid sail in performance when new but degrades rapidly under the combination of UV and flex. Because it is a very expensive fiber, its use in sails has all but disappeared in favor of the even higher performance and more durable carbon option.

PEN
PEN is a fiber with stretch between polyester and aramid and with slightly higher strength than polyester but far less than aramid. That combination and a cost approaching aramid have meant that this fiber has limited application in sails. It has been ruled to be polyester and as such can be used in one-design classes that limit their sails to polyester.

Summary
New fibers continue to come out of the labs. Some will become standards while others will disappear. Despite the promise of these exciting new fibers, design still plays a vital part in their successful application in your sails. Simply inserting a spicy new fiber in a poorly engineered fabric or sail design is a formula for failure. Similarly, enough of the fiber must be used to handle the sailing loads and the abuse it will take in tacking, flogging and handling. Low stretch has always been desirable in selecting fibers for sailcloth but this is only one element in a sails performance. It is ultimately the combination of fiber, fabric and sail design that makes for a winning sail.

Fortunately for North our 3DL molded sailmaking process allows us to produce a test sail from a new fiber within a few days of its arrival at our factory in Nevada. This has allowed us to quickly evaluate new offerings and to remain the industry’s technological leader.

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Plywood Boat Plans | Star 45 R C model sail boat Keels and keel ballast bulbs

Plywood Boat Plans

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, KEELS AND BALLAST BULBS


7.1 Keel will be of the style known as drop, and will be of the FIN and BULB type.

7.2 Keel fins may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. (Note: Strength and integrity of the keel fins must be maintained whether built solid or hollow.) Keel fin shape is not specified but must follow the general shapes outlined on the reference drawing. However, keels will not be less than 6 inches nor more than 8 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/hull junction, nor less than 4 inches nor more than 6 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/ballast bulb junction.

7.3 Keels, keel fins and ballast bulbs may be removable, however, they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started. Mechanically movable keels or ballast bulbs are specifically prohibited from use in Star 45 Class Yachts.

7.4 Ballast bulbs may be constructed of any material not prohibited by the AMYA. The actual shape is left to the builders discretion, but will not exceed 9.75 (9 3/4) inches from the front of the keel bulb to the rearmost point of the keel or bulb.

7.5 Total drop (length) of the keel fin/ballast bulb combination will not exceed 11.5 (11 1/2) inches when measured from the keel/hull junction, before any fillers or streamlining is added.

7.6 Ballast may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. (Note: When using material such as lead shot, the mass must be solidified through the use of a bonding agent such as fiberglass or epoxy resin, plaster of paris, poured over and through in order to create a solid mass.)

7.7 Race directors may elect to use a template based on the construction plans to determine the keel length (depth).

7.8 Keel depth shall be measured from the center of the keel fin at the hull to the bottom of the ballast bulb. This measurement is from the edge of the bottom of the hull as it meets the side of the keel and should be determined during construction and before any fillet or fairing is added.

7.9 The Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries (power cells) from being considered ballast. This specification defines ballast as anything carried aboard the model for the main purpose of changing the weight distribution of the model and/or weight of the model. Ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting (bolts and screws).

7.9.1 Ballast may not be removed or relocated during any one regatta. The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast.

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Boat Trailer Plans Australia | Construction Star 45 Sail Making colored sails sail material

Boat Trailer Plans Australia

Apr 2007 Subject: [Star45] Sails - colors
--
From: "Larry Ludwig" mailing list Star45@yahoogroups.com

You can have colored sails. You can make your own from ripstop and the colors are all available. The material is inexpensive enough that even if you do botch the first few attempts its not going to set you back more than $10.00

Learning to make sails teachs you more about TRIMMING sails and the way they take a "set" than sailing a boat ever will.

If you set your mainsail luff as a bolt rope (and you should IMHO) then it takes only a few seconds to pop off your mast head or foot, slide out one sail and slide in the other. Then if your jib is setup as a hook attachment to a hole in the mast, you unhook from the deck, unhook from the mast and voila, you are ready to hook both ends of the 2nd sail and you are complete. You should be able to change the sails on your boat in 2 minutes if you are properly set up. Of course, using a 2nd mast and complete rig is even faster. If you setup so your turnbuckles remain on the deck, then they are ready to go regardless of which rig you chose, and you reduce the cost of a 2nd rig by $40 right there.

Dont discount ripstop sails too much. They may not be all the rage... but I promise you the skipper skill factor is WAY more important than the sail material. I have rip stop sails here that have lasted 20 years, if they are well cared for, they will last. Skippers familiar with the Vic class will remember a Regional Regatta being won with a stock ripstop mainsail last year ( I think it was)

Give it a shot, you wont be sorry you did. *and it DOES look very nice on your boat.
--
From: "J Fisher" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have seen people in the 914 fleet use colored markers to color sails. I think it was mostly to tell the boats apart, but there were some interesting designs. You could probably paint your sails as well to get color.
--
From: jfisher@wildblue.net I have made a lot of sail and could put together a step by step to make sails.

I use mylar which I buy from www.McMaster.com. They only carry clear, so I sand it to make it translucent. It colors well with markers so that would be one way to make colored sails. To make sails you can use the sail block based on the method provided on the star 45 yahoo groups by John Whitford or you can use the block from great basin, which is based on the Sweede Johnson sail block. I have used the sweede block with good results.
--
From: "Larry Ludwig" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

You can make panelled sails, but it is not required. You can get PLENTY of use out of a single panelled sail. They actually have some advantages in high winds because of the less draught. Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. The block method works fine, but also.. is not required. Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) and cut it with a #9 X-acto or scissors. Use seamstress tape and overstitch. Do the same thing with the luff curve, and hem the foot and leech and you are about there. Oversew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers. Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations.

Where to find the material? Nylon ripstop is inexpensive... typically $6-$7 (x 38-50" long bolt) a yard at LONDONs Fabrics or HANCOCK Fabrics, sometimes you will find it at HOBBY LOBBY retail stores, but if you check your local fabric store you will most likely come up with some in various colors. Also using contrasting thread colors can make the sail more attractive. Start with a single panel sail and go through all the steps. When you are ready to start making paneled sails... dont be afraid to make them out of paper first. Typical brown paper can be cut and taped together and makes a perfect mock up of the sail for pennies.
--
From: "Al Stein" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Star45] Re: Sails - colors

I think I got mine from Potomac Sailmakers in Alexandria, Virginia... I bought yellow and orange, but they had a bunch of different colors in spinnaker cloth, and very light weight and airtight it is.

Its fairly stiff, too, for as light as it is -- something well under an ounce per yard. Price about the same as Larry experienced... less than $10 a running yard from a BIG WIDE bolt (cant remenber exact width, but it was much wider than normal fabric store goods.
--
From: "John & Kelly" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have built US One Meter sails from spinnaker cloth purchased from Sailrite.

I used .5 oz which is only available in red, white, and blue, but .75 oz is available in a multitude of colors.

The part I like best about these materials is you can buy a role of C3 spinnaker tape (pricey at $25.00) and build a set of sails without sewing a stitch.

They actually use C3 to tape together the body seams of full scale spinnakers so Im pretty sure it can take just about anything a model can throw at it.

Ive built two sets of sails and only used about 10% of my role of tape so that $25.00 will go a long way.

At about $12.00 a yard, spinnaker cloth is twice the cost of fabric store ripstop, but spinnaker cloth is coated with resin that makes it far more stable and eliminates all porosity (wind can blow right through ripstop). I also havent tried using C3 on plain ripstop, so I cant say how the bond will hold up.

For cutting fabric like this Id use a hot knife. I bought a $4.00 40watt soldering iron at the local mega-mart, removed the tip, hammered it flat, and put it back in. Cutting works best over a smooth heat resistant surface. I use my glass topped kitchen table (when my wifes not home).
--


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Boden Boat Plans Australia | The Star45 Model Sail Boat A radio controlled R C Sailing Model

Boden Boat Plans Australia

The Star 45 is a 45" long hard chine hull; semi-scale model of the full-size Olympic Star. They weigh 12 pounds plus, have 12 inch beam. They are easy to scratch build and sail. Well suited for building by by the novice builder and by the skipper looking for a classic looking model to race.

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Boat Plans Arch Davis | S45 Model Boat construction Sail Control Units

Boat Plans Arch Davis

installing the radio tray for an under deck winch, jib tweaker, and rudder servo. From John Fisher:



The radio tray is 1/16 ply backed up with 1/8 X 3/8 spruce or basswood. Note the glassing at the ends. This adds a lot of strength to the joint and John highly recommend adding it. John uses 1" wide glass tape cut in half, then sprayed with 3M77 so it will stay in place for gluing. Then a dab of your favorite epoxy and you are done.






sheet through deck mount.


jib tweaker turn around. The part is a 180 deg sheet lead from great basin.



See also http://woodstar45.blogspot.com/2006/10/blog-post_116031550255831231.html
--
From: David Ramos To: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 10:23 am
The following photos show my set up for a drum servo and jib tweaker.

--
Note:
One major advantage of building from a fiberglass hull is the open space inside the hull. David Ramos offers workmanship second to none.

Dave Mainwaring
--
http://www.rcyachts.com/STAR45/P1010084.JPG


http://www.rcyachts.com/STAR45/P1010082.JPG


Main sheet is 2:1 and jib sheet is 1:1

Hope this helps
David Ramos
Chesapeake Performance Models
227 Main Street
Stevensville, MD 21666
david@rcyachts.com
www.rcyachts.com

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Boat Plans Arch Davis | Lester Gilbert on sail making for model sail boats

Boat Plans Arch Davis

Model Boat journal

Lester Gilbert on understanding of sail making for model sail boats
Lester Gilbert wrote:
For anyone interested in sailmaking, Ive just finished editing Larry Robinsons "Making Model Yacht Sails" (part 1 only) booklet and have published it as an "international" edition. Ive done this, not to get rich (cos this isnt going to happen to either me or Larry or anyone else connected with this enterprise!), but because Ive spoken to a lot of sailors who want to make sails but dont know the "right" techniques, and who are being misled by incorrect accounts of how this might be done.


A sail block

(Illustration from Larry Robinsons "Making Model Yacht Sails")

From my understanding of sail making, there are two ideas I want to contradict.

The first idea is that you can make sails by accurately cutting a curve on a panel, and then attaching it (stitching, gluing) to another panel. Well, while you might be able to cut a good curve some of the time, your fingers just dont have laser accuracy in them to stick A to B and youll hardly ever obtain reproducible or reliable results. (It might be possible to butt-join the curved edge to another curved edge with a little more reliability, but this doesnt yield what the Equipment Rules of Sailing define to be a seam. Such a sail couldnt be used in sanctioned IOM competition, though it would be OK in a development class.)

The second idea is that you can drape your panels over a "camber board" and get a nice shape that way. Well, let me be clear about what Im knocking here. I take a "camber board" to be a length of curved surface, where the curve is like the surface of a cylinder. In this case, your panelled sail will have exactly the same shape as a single un-panelled sail and, if you wanted a three-dimensional shape, youve wasted your time (though the result certainly looks the part).

Larrys booklet is the only source I know which carefully explains the use and construction of a sail block. I am sure that this is really the only way (in your garage, please, not in some specialist workshop!) to make professional sails, to obtain reliable and reproducible three-dimensional shaping, and to be able to tweak and change your shaping as you learn about the whole business.

(Warning: Yall should know I have ten thumbs and have never made a sail yet. What I have done carefully is to watch and talk to those who do, both professionally and as home builders, and measure the results. Making Larrys booklet available internationally is my way of telling you what Ive learned.)

Bob Wells will be able to ship this within the USA, and I expect that it will also be available from Don Ginthner at GBMY. For worldwide sales, contact SAILSetc. Bob Wells e-mail is "bob" at "islandinet.com", GBMY is "rcsailing" at "gbmy.com", and SAILSetc can be contacted through "sales" at "sailsetc.com".

Ive attempted an analysis of how blocks work on a new page, Sail blocks analysis, and have a new spreadsheet there to help.

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Boat Plans Arch Davis | ROUTE DU RHUM THE WORLDS BIGGEST SAIL RACE

Boat Plans Arch Davis

Certainly not by the number of boats, "only" 91 on this edition but probably the biggest in public interest, even more than the Vendee Globe and there is a reason for that: This was the first Transat that said no to the ratting rules. Here you arrive first and you win. Simple as that. Yes I know they have introduced classes but that is not the same thing as ratting. Anyway thats one of the few races where they depart all at the same time and off course, independently of the classes the overall winner is the one that arrives first, even if the classification comes in classes.

http://interestingsailboats.blogspot.pt/2014_09_01_archive.html

Le Rhum, cap sur 2014 ! by routedurhum

On the first one, in 1978 there were no classes and it was the first Transat where you could race in a mono-hull or a multihull of any size for the win.  And the win went for a Multihull...but only by 98s after 23 days racing. That was really incredible!!! of course the Monohull was a lot bigger than the trimaran that won, but sizes are free on this race. 

You can pick the fastest mono-hull in a transat, that is certainly the new Comanche, and race it on this race on the class of monohulls bigger than 39ft (minimum size is the only limitation). There is a snag...someone would have to sail the huge Comanche solo :-)...because this is a solo race. Crazy? not more crazy then sailing on of the maxi trimarans solo (and they do it)...if someone has the balls and knowledge to do it and the rigging is adapted. Off course, probably you can count by the fingers of your hands the sailors that have the ability and the potential to do it and that is one of the things that make this race great: The boat counts but only the best have the ability to sail one of these monsters solo. Here the skipper counts more than in any other race. Just look at the size and speed of these boats.They have to be sailed by a solo master and they are all in this race, on different classes.

Yann Eliès sur Paprec Recyclage by routedurhum
Lionel Lemonchois sur Prince de Bretagne by routedurhum
Sodebo Ultim - Thomas Coville : Objectif Route... by sodebo-voile

For me one of the most interesting boats racing are the Multi 50. They are very tricky boats to race, fast bur nervous and fragile. Its double interesting because in the end, specially if the weather is rough, their performance is very similar to the one of an Open 60. What normally happens is that just one or two manage to go faster on those conditions and it can happen that an Open 60 beats them all. As I say, they are fast but the risk of capsize is big, they are not that good upwind and have to have much more care not to break the boat than the guys on Open60s. Here you have them, being raced with a crew: look even with a crew how nervous these boats are. Really tricky for a solo sailor. To go really fast it has to be a very good one.

Multi50-2014 from Multi50 on Vimeo.
Sailing one of those solo is only for the best:
Actual - Yves Le Blevec by routedurhum
and then we have the well known IMOCA open 60s with all the stars from the Vendee Globe.

and the 40class, that here really looks like a promotional class. No, I know they are incredibly good sailors on those boats...except that they all want to go to one of the big ones and there are a reason why they have not arrive there yet...but the rising stars are all there, some coming from the mini racing. This racing is so interesting that an old legend could not resist to have a go at it.

Route du Rhum : Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, doyen... by OuestFranceFR
He is going to race an old Open6o. Because it is an old one does not race on the IMOCA category but on the category of monohulls bigger than 39ft. Off course the boat is old, but brand new when compared with him: 75 years and still racing with the best!!! Damn, how can he do that? Thumbs up for him ;-)

The race starts November 2 at 14.00 (French Time GT+1)
http://www.routedurhum.com/en/s01_home/s01p01_home.php

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Boat Plans Bartender | Fishing under sail

Boat Plans Bartender

Do we eat a lot of fish while out sailing? Well the answer is , sometimes a lot but most times only when we want to. Catching fish today in a lot of the worlds oceans is not what it once was for me growing up on the water. The worlds oceans are really under human pressure. I will fish when under way if the weather is good so that my crew will eat the fish I catch and not be too sea sick to take a pass on on it. We sail without refrigeration so what we catch has got to be eaten in 24 hours. I like dried raw fish but going through the process of drying it and then watching me eat it makes most of my crews squirm. When I troll lines astern my method is to put out three lines of three different lengths with the shortest just out 35 and the longest at the end of my bubble stream from the rudder. I like all my lures to be popping out of the water every few feet. This I belive makes them look like scattering flying fish with the bigger fish not having the time to really get a good look at whats up. As a young kid sailing in the Pacific I used to want to catch every thing and the biggest thing I could. Today I just want a fish that we can eat in a day so I use small 20 lb treble hooks that will bend out if a big fish bites. My hooks get bent a lot but those fish will have learned a lesson and live another day. Catching big fish and trying to relaese them is a death sentence to them. Too much trauma and handling.

The biggest fish I have landed on a hand line to date was a 200 lb Blue Marlin while on a delivery trip. We were sailing off the coast of Dominica at daylight when the Blue struck. After an hours time I landed the fish and winched it up the stern of the catamran I was delivering. I then headed into shore and found some Dominicans fishing out of a small canoe and gave them the fish . They were very happy.

We kept 20 lbs to eat. That was the last time I put out a rig that will land just about anything.

Fish on ! Most times we hook a couple at a time as the school goes by.

Skipjack tuna the best for tasting like a steak if broiled right.

A Skipjack tuna as we drift away from the lee of Maderia

The four of us consumed 68 lbs of tuna felays in 18 days sailing to Barbados . 

Schoolie Dolfhin .. Perfect size

Early morning tuna in the Cape Verde islands. We like to have broiled tuna steaks for lunch and dinner. Then pressure cook the rest with it staying sealed in the pressure cooker till the next day and then make the best tuna salad ever. Then we lay off fishing for a few days.

We have extra fish ... Get on the VHF. And see if anyone wants some.

Breakfast , lunch, dinner and a weeks worth of fish jerky for me! I soak the fish in Soy sauce overnight then hang to dry during the day bringing down below at night to stay dry. Takes two days and is then good to go. This I chew on during my watches. No kissing Rachel till this is all eaten though.

A nice little Waho off the Silverbanks enroute from the BVIs to the Bahamas.

Catching Tuna while becalmed using a spinning rod enroute to Bermuda

Baby Barracuda goes back in

Some happy fish mongers in The Cape Verde islands. Blue fin tuna Caught  that day was $ .90 cents a pound so.... Lots of stern Bar B Qing while there.

Sorry ! But you taste so good

Too much carnage in the cockpit. Good thing we have all that water around us to clean up with

And when you get board with fish you can always find some lobsters to noose when at anchor.

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