Boat Plans Pdf | Beautiful Shearwater 45 Available

Boat Plans Pdf

The Shearwaters are boats of which I feel proud. They are very pretty, they are capable in all weather conditions and they are fast. The Shearwater 39 has an enviable reputation as one of the most seaworthy designs ever to come out of South Africa, a country that is known to have some of the most severe sailing waters in the world. These boats turn heads wherever they go, partly because they are so pretty and partly because they sail past many boats that look faster.

Shearwater 39 "Shoestring III" on launch day.

The Shearwater 45 grew naturally out of the reputation that was earned by the 39 and was developed out of the moulds of the 39. It has more length with no freeboard increase and with very little extra beam. The resulting boat is very sleek and gracious to look at and it gained a surprising boost of speed that allows it to outsail most boats of equal size and many that are up to 25% longer. In gaining that speed it has lost nothing of the seaworthy characteristics of the smaller sister. What it did gain is greater responsiveness and fingertip steering due to the change from a semi-balanced transom-hung rudder to a balanced spade rudder.

Shearwater 45 sailing on Chesapeake Bay.

We have good examples of both of these designs available on our brokerage pages. The most recent to come available is the gorgeous 45 "Maggy May". She is lying in the Caribbean and is fully equipped, maintained in top condition and ready to cruise to anywhere that you care to go. She is only being sold due to serious illness of the owner. To view "Maggy May" and the other Shearwaters that we have listed, go to http://dixdesign.com/brokerdd.htm.

Please visit our website at http://dixdesign.com/.

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Boden Boat Plans Australia | Star 45 Model Sailboat GET THAT TOPPING LIFT RIGHT if you wanna go fast !

Boden Boat Plans Australia

By Phil Geren

Of all the go fast stuff I have learned from tuning experts over the past year, the most valuable, and the thing that has provided the most additional boat speed for my 13#-3.5oz Star 45 (the "Fat Lady") is how to get the Jibs topping lift set right. I am doing much better in my racing since learning this.

The curve of the leech of the Jibsail MUST resemble as closely as possible the curve of the leeward surface of the Mainsail when sighting from the foredeck. If the Jibs leech is flatter or fuller your boat will not attain its speed potential while beating and reaching.

The topping lift enables you to get the curves aligned. Tightening the topping lift makes the Jibs leech fuller, more curved. Loosening the topping lift makes the Jibs leech flatter. With a little practice you can get the curves to be identical.

Heres how:

Pull the Mainsail in to the beating position; Swivel the Jib boom with your finger (apply only lateral force, no upward or downward force on the Jib boom) so that when you sight from the foredeck and look up and down the curve of the windward surface of the leech of the Jibsail it is superimposed on the curve of the back (leeward) surface of the Mainsail.

Are the curves identical? If not, is the Jibs leech more curved?
If it is, loosen the topping lift.

If the Jibs leech is flatter, tighten the topping lift.

Make small adjustments. This is very sensitive, and you can get it right if you persevere.
Recheck the need for adjustment after every few heats of racing or if you change anything else.

On sailboats EVERYTHING is related to everything else, and you will need to readjust periodically to maintain your added speed.

Dont have a topping lift? INSTALL ONE NOW! You wont believe the improvement!

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Boat Plans And Patterns | Star 45 Setting Sail on line How To Sail resources

Boat Plans And Patterns

From: "Don Keeney" <1keyknee@281.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 15:39:26 -0600
Subject: [Star45] Sail Trim

A great place to learn about sail trim and sailing in general.
http://www.sailingusa.info/sail_trim.htm

Don Keeney
Star 45 Class Secretary
--
Outstanding recommendation. Wonderful site. full of photographs and all sorts of instructional materials. Pictures of tells and how to read them:)

Another must place to visit (you can try out your sailing skills):
National Geographics Interactive Sailing:

Master rudder and sail to get your boat going as fast as possible no matter what direction youre sailing in-or which way the winds blowing.

Controls available:

Sail Adjuster: Use the left sliding controller to rotate the sail in relation to shifting wind (shown as arrows). When you cross the path of the wind, your sail will swing to the opposite side.

Rudder Adjuster: Using the right sliding controller, steer to port (left) or starboard (right).


Uncle Dave

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Boat Plans African Queen | Star 45 Keel fins building options Star45

Boat Plans African Queen

{Rule7.2}
Keel fins may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. (Note: Strength and integrity of the keel fins must be maintained whether built solid or hollow.) Keel fin shape is not specified but must follow the general shapes outlined on the reference drawing. However, keels will not be less than 6 inches nor more than 8 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/hull junction, nor less than 4 inches nor more than 6 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/ballast bulb junction.

--
The Mainwaring Keel shape is a fine choice!
--

John Fisher suggests:

The quickest and easiest way to make them if you have access to a metal band saw is to draw the keel in CAD, then print it out. Glue that to a sheet of 3/32 aluminum with 3m77 and cut it to shape.

You could also do the same thing with sheets of plywood and layer it to achive a airfoil shape. Each layer should be smaller than the last and then sand to blend the layers. Could also make a good cad project.

Another way is to cut the shape in two pcs of 1/16 ply, then tape the edges together. Insert a couple of threaded rods between the two sheets for attachment. Then fill with epoxy and microballoons. Using this method you should also glass the outside for additional stiffness. There are photos of making a rudder like this on the blog site.

--

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Plywood Boat Plans | Star 45 R C model sail boat Keels and keel ballast bulbs

Plywood Boat Plans

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, KEELS AND BALLAST BULBS


7.1 Keel will be of the style known as drop, and will be of the FIN and BULB type.

7.2 Keel fins may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. (Note: Strength and integrity of the keel fins must be maintained whether built solid or hollow.) Keel fin shape is not specified but must follow the general shapes outlined on the reference drawing. However, keels will not be less than 6 inches nor more than 8 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/hull junction, nor less than 4 inches nor more than 6 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/ballast bulb junction.

7.3 Keels, keel fins and ballast bulbs may be removable, however, they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started. Mechanically movable keels or ballast bulbs are specifically prohibited from use in Star 45 Class Yachts.

7.4 Ballast bulbs may be constructed of any material not prohibited by the AMYA. The actual shape is left to the builders discretion, but will not exceed 9.75 (9 3/4) inches from the front of the keel bulb to the rearmost point of the keel or bulb.

7.5 Total drop (length) of the keel fin/ballast bulb combination will not exceed 11.5 (11 1/2) inches when measured from the keel/hull junction, before any fillers or streamlining is added.

7.6 Ballast may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. (Note: When using material such as lead shot, the mass must be solidified through the use of a bonding agent such as fiberglass or epoxy resin, plaster of paris, poured over and through in order to create a solid mass.)

7.7 Race directors may elect to use a template based on the construction plans to determine the keel length (depth).

7.8 Keel depth shall be measured from the center of the keel fin at the hull to the bottom of the ballast bulb. This measurement is from the edge of the bottom of the hull as it meets the side of the keel and should be determined during construction and before any fillet or fairing is added.

7.9 The Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries (power cells) from being considered ballast. This specification defines ballast as anything carried aboard the model for the main purpose of changing the weight distribution of the model and/or weight of the model. Ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting (bolts and screws).

7.9.1 Ballast may not be removed or relocated during any one regatta. The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast.

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Boat Trailer Plans Australia | Construction Star 45 Sail Making colored sails sail material

Boat Trailer Plans Australia

Apr 2007 Subject: [Star45] Sails - colors
--
From: "Larry Ludwig" mailing list Star45@yahoogroups.com

You can have colored sails. You can make your own from ripstop and the colors are all available. The material is inexpensive enough that even if you do botch the first few attempts its not going to set you back more than $10.00

Learning to make sails teachs you more about TRIMMING sails and the way they take a "set" than sailing a boat ever will.

If you set your mainsail luff as a bolt rope (and you should IMHO) then it takes only a few seconds to pop off your mast head or foot, slide out one sail and slide in the other. Then if your jib is setup as a hook attachment to a hole in the mast, you unhook from the deck, unhook from the mast and voila, you are ready to hook both ends of the 2nd sail and you are complete. You should be able to change the sails on your boat in 2 minutes if you are properly set up. Of course, using a 2nd mast and complete rig is even faster. If you setup so your turnbuckles remain on the deck, then they are ready to go regardless of which rig you chose, and you reduce the cost of a 2nd rig by $40 right there.

Dont discount ripstop sails too much. They may not be all the rage... but I promise you the skipper skill factor is WAY more important than the sail material. I have rip stop sails here that have lasted 20 years, if they are well cared for, they will last. Skippers familiar with the Vic class will remember a Regional Regatta being won with a stock ripstop mainsail last year ( I think it was)

Give it a shot, you wont be sorry you did. *and it DOES look very nice on your boat.
--
From: "J Fisher" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have seen people in the 914 fleet use colored markers to color sails. I think it was mostly to tell the boats apart, but there were some interesting designs. You could probably paint your sails as well to get color.
--
From: jfisher@wildblue.net I have made a lot of sail and could put together a step by step to make sails.

I use mylar which I buy from www.McMaster.com. They only carry clear, so I sand it to make it translucent. It colors well with markers so that would be one way to make colored sails. To make sails you can use the sail block based on the method provided on the star 45 yahoo groups by John Whitford or you can use the block from great basin, which is based on the Sweede Johnson sail block. I have used the sweede block with good results.
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From: "Larry Ludwig" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

You can make panelled sails, but it is not required. You can get PLENTY of use out of a single panelled sail. They actually have some advantages in high winds because of the less draught. Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. The block method works fine, but also.. is not required. Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) and cut it with a #9 X-acto or scissors. Use seamstress tape and overstitch. Do the same thing with the luff curve, and hem the foot and leech and you are about there. Oversew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers. Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations.

Where to find the material? Nylon ripstop is inexpensive... typically $6-$7 (x 38-50" long bolt) a yard at LONDONs Fabrics or HANCOCK Fabrics, sometimes you will find it at HOBBY LOBBY retail stores, but if you check your local fabric store you will most likely come up with some in various colors. Also using contrasting thread colors can make the sail more attractive. Start with a single panel sail and go through all the steps. When you are ready to start making paneled sails... dont be afraid to make them out of paper first. Typical brown paper can be cut and taped together and makes a perfect mock up of the sail for pennies.
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From: "Al Stein" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Star45] Re: Sails - colors

I think I got mine from Potomac Sailmakers in Alexandria, Virginia... I bought yellow and orange, but they had a bunch of different colors in spinnaker cloth, and very light weight and airtight it is.

Its fairly stiff, too, for as light as it is -- something well under an ounce per yard. Price about the same as Larry experienced... less than $10 a running yard from a BIG WIDE bolt (cant remenber exact width, but it was much wider than normal fabric store goods.
--
From: "John & Kelly" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have built US One Meter sails from spinnaker cloth purchased from Sailrite.

I used .5 oz which is only available in red, white, and blue, but .75 oz is available in a multitude of colors.

The part I like best about these materials is you can buy a role of C3 spinnaker tape (pricey at $25.00) and build a set of sails without sewing a stitch.

They actually use C3 to tape together the body seams of full scale spinnakers so Im pretty sure it can take just about anything a model can throw at it.

Ive built two sets of sails and only used about 10% of my role of tape so that $25.00 will go a long way.

At about $12.00 a yard, spinnaker cloth is twice the cost of fabric store ripstop, but spinnaker cloth is coated with resin that makes it far more stable and eliminates all porosity (wind can blow right through ripstop). I also havent tried using C3 on plain ripstop, so I cant say how the bond will hold up.

For cutting fabric like this Id use a hot knife. I bought a $4.00 40watt soldering iron at the local mega-mart, removed the tip, hammered it flat, and put it back in. Cutting works best over a smooth heat resistant surface. I use my glass topped kitchen table (when my wifes not home).
--


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Boat Plans Bartender | Sails for AMYA Star 45 Sailing Model

Boat Plans Bartender

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, Sails

2.1 Sails may be of single or multi-paneled construction. Sail material shall be unrestricted.

2.2 All sails are to be cut to comply with the following maximum dimensions when measured by the procedure as outlined in the "AMYA Regulations". Dimensions shown are measured Edge of Cloth" to "Edge of Cloth" and are in inches.

2.3
MAIN JIB
Luff 62.75 42.50
Foot 25.50 15.75
Leech 65.50 37.00
Roach 2.00 0.50
Head 0.75 0.75
Foot Round 0.50 0.50

2.4 All sails, main and jib, will be cut with either a straight head to clew leech with no roach, or a fair
curved head to clew leech with the maximum roach point occurring approximately one half the distance from the clew to head. Divide a straight line from the aft corners of the Clew and Head into four (4) equal sections. Then, for the Main Sail, maximum offset from edge of cloth for the Roach at the quarter points to be 1.75" and the offset at the mid-point to be 2.0". For the Jib, the offset at the quarter points to be 0.375" and at the mid-point to be 0.50". Sails cut with a straight leech at the maximum roach allowance are prohibited from use on the Star 45 Class Yacht.

2.5 The mainsail gooseneck or attachment will be attached to the Mast between 0.50 inch minimum to 4.0 inch maximum measured from the deck.

2.6 Battens are allowed on the mainsail but are restricted to 4 in number, equally spaced along the leech and may not exceed 8.50 inches in length. Battens are not permitted in the jib sail.

2.7 Sailmakers must conform to the above measurements.

9.1 Each yacht shall carry on her main sail the class 5 point "STAR EMBLEM" and an assigned AMYA registration number. The star shall be at least 2 inches in size (measured from point to point across the flat of the star) and positioned above the registration number. Registration numbers shall be at least 3 inches in height and at least 3/8 inch thick. Both star and registration numbers will be placed on the upper half of the mainsail on both port and starboard sides of the mainsail and shall be positioned so as to be easily read from either side.

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Boat Plans Skiff | star 45 construction double diagonal planked hull

Boat Plans Skiff

Model Sail Boat Building, How To Build A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model

star 45 construction | double diagonal planked hull
From: "John Fisher"

Here are some photos of Sherwood Jones Star 45 with double diagonal bottom planking. He used two layers of 1/16 planking. The planks are 1" wide. He then covered it with 1 ½oz glass. Weight is about the same as mine with the 1/16 longitudinal planks and two layers of 3.2 oz glass. Just goes to show that there are multiple ways to solve a problem.

John

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Boat Plans Aluminium | Star 45 Mainwaring keel and bulb on an old S45

Boat Plans Aluminium

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Pontoon Boat Plans | The Garcia Exploration 45 Jimmy Cornells New Boat

Pontoon Boat Plans

Aluminum Boat Building Is Alive And Well (in France)

Allures and Garcia Yachts http://www.garcia-yachting.com/ were well represented at this years Annapolis Sailboat Show. With the Allures 39.9 and the Garcia Exploration 45. In this review I will be discussing the Exploration 45 built by Garcia Yachts. Also known as Jimmy Cornells New Boat.

The Exploration 45 was designed with the input of veteran sailor, voyager, and cruiser Jimmy Cornell. The design comes from the board of Berret Racoupeau Yacht Design.

Even though this is a new design, and something I have not seen before, it does have something in common with other Garcias and the Allures Yachts a centerboard with twin rudders. This design makes for a very efficient sailing design because one rudder is alway vertical under sail. At slow motoring speeds having the twin rudders without the benefit of prop wash can make this type of design difficult to maneuver. The Expedition 45 solves this problem with the installation of a bow thruster. I was impressed with how well the boat maneuvered in the tight confines of the marina. With a draft of 3.44 with the board up and 9.14 board down shallow water cruising opens up a new world not usually visited by monohulls. With the board down windward performance is better than you would think of a centerboard yacht. As with all boats this design is a compromise of shallow draft and windward preference. It is a compromise I can live with! In our sail off of Annapolis, Maryland in 15-20 knots of wind we obtained speeds of 7-9 knots. The Exploration 45 handled well, which was to be expected of the design. In the afternoon the wind continued to increase and we decided to put a reef in the main. The process went with out a hitch. Over all, sailing this boat should be very easy for a couple.

One of the most impressive features of the Exploration 45 is the navigation station. The navigation station is located in the forward saloon. This allows great visibility out of the house windows. I was impressed in the fact I was able to see over the bow from this position. The interior was easy to navigate underway and comfortable. My only complaint is the limited access of the engine which is below the sole at the companion way which could make servicing the engine underway difficult. I found the filters and strainers were easy to access. The cockpit felt safe and comfortable. For the watch there is a safe place to sit behind the house with the chartplotter/radar within easy reach.

Down Below Underway

What about the construction? I took a very close look at the construction of this yacht. I am thankful that the Builder and Swiftsure yachts allowed me access to the bilge and systems areas of the boat.

I was very impressed with what I could see. The metal work stands out on Exploration 45. The hull is fair, the welds are well executed, and the hull to deck edge is beautifully done. The cabin top is made from fiberglass composite. The aluminum decks are covered with cork decking to give the appearance of a teak deck. The footing of this deck is very good and it feels good on the knees.

Hull Framing

I would very much enjoy finding myself hundreds of miles offshore, watching the miles tick by on an Exploration 45.

With Allures and Garcia Yachts being marketed in the USA by Swiftsure Yachts http://swiftsureyachts.com/garcia-exploration-45-2/ 

I hope to see more aluminum boats on the water here in the states. I look forward to when these yachts are on the used boat market and I find myself surveying one.

To view a video of the of the Exploration 45 underway go here:  Exploration 45 from Swiftsure Yachts

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Pontoon Boat Plans Aluminum | Star 45 Construction templates Keel fin

Pontoon Boat Plans Aluminum

Building templates for S45 Keel fin.
Originals drawings are based on 1/16 ply.

Modeler may want to use different building materials for the fin.
Final keel fin will be shaped the builder. Also these are JPG drawing and print outs may require adjustments to get the templates to correct sizing.

The grid shown is set for 1/4 inch squares. So if you print the templates you can check the size by making sure the grid is a 1/4 square. If you want to scale the keel fins for another model you can change the print out to give you a different grid size.

This set of templates are based on bolt mounting. The grid makes it easy to add to the template to have the keel extend into the hull or extend into the keel bulb. Modelers choice.

Most browsers will allow you to right click and open the jpg images. You can then save them to your machine.

This set of templates are based on drawing from John Fisher 2006. John may have new and updated drawings available. Check with http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=star45 membership required.

I want to thank J. Herrmann, www.graphicLanguageOnline.com, for his assistance in converting pdfs to jpg drawing, adding color to the templates and adding the grid to the final images.

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Pontoon Boat Plans | Online Security

Pontoon Boat Plans

I know that this is a subject that has no more to do with boats than it has to do with any other aspect of our lives. Nevertheless, I am writing about it. This is a natural extension of my recent posts about hackers and my steps to circumvent the problems.

Thee are many, many people and organisations in the modern world that are trying at all times to separate you from your money or to harm you in whatever way they can. These organisations are illegal but they are big business. So we have to all take whatever precautions we can to foil them in both personal and business dealings.

Today I read a white paper titled "Ten Current Security Threats for Individuals". Some of what it says is simple common sense, much of which is ignored by most people. "It will never happen to me" works for everyone until it does "happen to me", or someone close. Other parts of it contain important information that we can act on, particularly how we set up and use our smartphones and how we use open WiFi connections at restaurants, hotels,  airports etc. We tend to brush off or disregard the dangers of these services because they can be so useful.

Take the time to set up the proper security features on whatever devices you use, to protect your own information from those who are out to harm you. They are not specifically targeting you or me, or the kid next door. They are taking advantage of whatever avenue is open to them to steal whatever they can. The victim just happens to be the one who left the door or window open to give them access, or didnt lock it securely enough. Take the time to read the white paper, it will help you to understand the dangers that we all have to guard against.

To get back to my hacker problem, I remedied the situation very quickly, thanks to my vigilant supporters who alerted me. The problem was fixed before Google or Nortons knew about it. The site scanner that was set to scan my site hadnt even picked it up yet but found it when I queried it. Since then I have investigated further and found that the scanning service that I had signed for only scanned 500 files and my site has nearly 700 pages and more than 3,000 files. It gave me an "all clear" report that morning but had obviously looked at the wrong files. The service that I have on my new server scans all files every day.

I will continue to do all that I can to keep my website safe for visitors. It is, after all, my main connection to my supporters and builders, present and future, in faraway places. For your part, please do whatever you can to keep yourself, your electronic devices and your finances safe from the baddies of the digital world.

To see our boat designs, please visit dixdesign.com/.



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Boat Plans Canada | Star 45 Construction Planking with edge glueing

Boat Plans Canada

[Star45] Update on planking bottom with edge glueing.

John Fisher is ready { 4/19/2007 } to glass his latest boat and is sharing how he planked it. His dad built a ply sided, cedar planked star using titebond II and it came out pretty light and stiff. With this information I started to build another hull using the same materials. He felt that edge gluing the planks added a lot of the strength to his boat. John didnt want to glue in extra wood to hold the pins to keep the planks in place for the glue to dry, so I combined two methods of planking. John liked the quickness of planking with CA and kicker, but it lacked stiffness when sanding the bottom before glassing. So he decided to edge glue the planks and then tack them in place to the frames with CA.

In this photo you can see where John put drops of CA on the planks. The wood is slightly darker.


It worked well. John has an edge glued bottom and he was able to plank it in one evening. To do this John first spray the frames with kicker, then apply titebond III to the edge of the planks. He then would hold the plank in place, tight against the previous plank, and apply a drop of CA to each frame to hold it in place. It did not matter where John started, bow, stern, or middle, but do make sure the CA has set up before moving to the next frame. Once the whole plank was in place he came back and wiped off the extra titebond. To fair the bottom to the sides he used a $10, 6" plane from home depot set at .010" depth of cut. It quickly removed the cedar and a little sanding finished the job.

John had one plank that was too thin that he had to remove, it was harder than expected. He had the use quite a bit of force to break the glue joint at each frame, so he is confident that this method is strong. John will also use this for balsa planked bottoms.

In photo # 10 you can see the stern still needs to be trimmed and sanded. John will probably use a saw to trim in close and then sand to fair it.


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Boat Plans Australia | The Star 45 is a one design class of model yachts

Boat Plans Australia

PondYachtworks in Scottsdale, AZ.

American Model Yachting Association Star 45 Class

The Star 45 is a one design class of model yachts recognized by the American Model Yacht Association. This boat is 45" long with a minumum weight of 12 pounds. The design is a semiscale model of a International Star. These boats can be scratchbuilt, from a kit or purchased complete.

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Dinghy Boat Plans | Website Hackers

Dinghy Boat Plans

We had a hacker problem a few days ago, someone hacked our main website and implanted malicious code into all of our pages on Sunday. Two of our alert supporters were very prompt in notifying me about the problem so that I could fix it. Thank you Vincent Houle and Luca Lafranchi for helping us, instead of deleting our website from your bookmarks.

I replaced all of the bad files about 1pm Eastern time but I dont have a record of the time that the hacker posted on my site on Sunday. I also replaced my password with a much more complicated one for added security. The old one was quite complicated and way out of the ordinary, so I dont know how the hacker figured it out. I guess that it is possible but not likely that someone at the hosting company stole it. In an attempt to cover all bases I am moving my website to a server that I consider to have a better level of ethics and better security controls.

I hope that the transition will go smoothly, probably later today or tomorrow. If you do notice a break in our web and/or email service, please bear with us and try again in a few hours. If you continue to have problems then please post a comment below this post.

A major reason for my decision to change service providers is that many supporters in Turkey have not been able to view our website for a year or more. It is being blocked for some reason in Turkey and I have not been able to get this corrected. I hope that the change of server will reconnect us with our Turkish supporters.

Everyone should have good security software on their computers that have access to the Internet. Your security software should have caught the malicious code if you visited our website while the code was active. If you visited Sunday or Monday and your software didnt alert you to a virus then please do a virus check on your computer for the JS/Kryptic ANQ trojan, which can compromise your computer system.

Thanks for your support and for bearing with us through the change of servers.

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Boat Plans Bruce Roberts | Star 45 Rudder Construction using laser cut laminations

Boat Plans Bruce Roberts

Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photos of naca0009 rudder

I am happy with how they turned out. I sent the production files to Stevens Monday, so you should be able to order a rudder if you need one. He doesnt have it posted yet, but if you call him he can cut them for you.
I built mine by clamping all the pcs together with the alignment pins in place (1/8 sq stock left over from stringers). Then CAd it together with thin CA. I used my random orbital sander with 150 grit to shape it. Took about 15 min or so. With the different layers you can see if you are removing material evenly. Once sanded I sprayed the rudder with 3M 77, covered with 3 oz glass, one PC folding it over the leading edge so there is no seam on the leading edge. I then added resin and vac bagged in my handy food saver. The next day I pulled off the breather and peel ply, sanded smooth and varnished.

The glass is probably not needed since the core is made out of ply. I used the glass to ensure it is not coming apart and only adds another 10 min or so to do. With the vac bagging it is very smooth and uniform with only a little sanding required to remove the texture of the peel ply. I did buy a yard of breather and peel ply, but waxed paper with holes in it and paper towels can be substituted."

Drawings are available from the Yahoo Star45 group "files"

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Boat Plans Bateau | Star 45 Construction Class rules regarding Keels

Boat Plans Bateau

Class specifications as of 2006:

7.0 KEELS AND BALLAST BULBS:

7.1 Keel will be of the style known as drop, and will be of the FIN and BULB type.

7.2 Keel fins may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. (Note: Strength and integrity of the keel fins must be maintained whether built solid or hollow.) Keel fin shape is not specified but must follow the general shapes outlined on the reference drawing. However, keels will not be less than 6 inches nor more than 8 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/hull junction, nor less than 4 inches nor more than 6 inches long (Fore and
Aft) at the keel/ballast bulb junction.

7.3 Keels, keel fins and ballast bulbs may be removable, however, they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started. Mechanically movable keels or ballast bulbs are specifically prohibited from use in Star 45 Class Yachts.

7.4 Ballast bulbs may be constructed of any material not prohibited by the AMYA. The actual shape is left to the builders discretion, but will not exceed 9.75 (9 3/4) inches from the front of the keel bulb to the rearmost point of the keel or bulb.

7.5 Total drop (length) of the keel fin/ballast bulb combination will not exceed 11.5 (11 1/2) inches when measured from the keel/hull junction, before any fillers or streamlining is added.

7.6 Ballast may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. (Note: When using material such as lead shot, the mass must be solidified through the use of a bonding agent such as fiberglass or epoxy resin, plaster of paris, poured over and through in order to create a solid mass.)

7.7 Race directors may elect to use a template based on the construction plans to determine the keel length (depth).

7.8 Keel depth shall be measured from the center of the keel fin at the hull to the bottom of the ballast bulb. This measurement is from the edge of the bottom of the hull as it meets the side of the keel and should be determined during construction and before any fillet or fairing is added.

7.9 The Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries (power cells) from being considered ballast. This specification defines ballast as anything carried aboard the model for the main purpose of changing the weight distribution of the model and/or weight of the model. Ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting (bolts and screws).

7.9.1 Ballast may not be removed or relocated during any one regatta. The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast.

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Boat Plans Australia | S45 Construction a cradle for the hull of wooden Star 45

Boat Plans Australia

From Star45 Yahoo Group - Message:
New use for Johns Lasercut Frames-"Cradle Making":

Phil Geren needed a cradle for the hull of my woodie Star 45 under construction, to hold the hull while he fair the gunnels to the frames in preparation for installation of the deck and while designing and installing the controls (keel is not on yet).

Well, the easiest way to make a perfect cradle is by using the holes (which are left in the John Fisher lasercut frame sheets after removal of the lasercut frames, to trace the exact shapes of the outsides of frames 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 onto 3/8 thick plywood. Allow for the thickness of planking and carpeting by drawing a second trace for each frame so that the hole for the hull is 3/8 bigger everywhere than the frame.

Then cut out each second trace as the inside of a frame for a cradle. Mount the cradle frames on a 2X4 piece of particle board, using the spacing of the balsa template included in the frames kit, and using a try square to get them vertical, and making sure that they are all on the same longitudinal center and all parallel.

Then hot glue 1 wide strips of carpeting to the insides of the cradle frames. Voila! A perfect hull cradle.

Best,
Phil Geren"



















Star45 : Message: The Perfect Cradle: "

Here are the hull cradle fotos I promised you.

Your shadow invention is so useful. The holes left in the plywood sheets after punching out the frames were used as templates to draw perfect frames for a cradle to hold the hull for completion of the construction (before keel installation).

Thanks so much!
Best regards,
Phil Geren"

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Boat Plans Wood | Didi 38 Prototype Birthday

Boat Plans Wood

"Black Cat" is the prototype of my Didi 38 design, built in my back garden in Hout Bay, South Africa. She was also the experiment that developed into my radius chine plywood range of designs, all under the Didi name. Today is her birthday, it is 19 years since we launched "Black Cat" at Royal Cape Yacht Club in Cape Town.

Didi 38 "Black Cat" at the start of the 1996 Cape to Rio Race.

Much has happened since then. She has 70 sisters in the water or in build around the world, in the Didi 38/40/40cr design series. She also has hundreds of smaller radius chine plywood monohull sisters being built or in the water, from the Didi Sport 15 through to the Didi 34. She has also spawned catamaran designs in the Dix 470 and DH550.

When I designed her, I did not imagine how popular this construction method would become. The Didi 38 design was for my own use. After that I drew the Didi 34 for a design competition that was run by South African Yachting magazine, now part of Richard Crocketts Sailing for Southern Africa magazine. Since then I have always had at least one other concept waiting in line for me to draw it for this method of construction. Now is no different, I have a commission for a 38ft big sister to the Didi 950 and have many people asking for smaller sisters to the two catamarans, in various sizes. All that I need is the time to draw them.

"Black Cat" in Brazils Bay of Islands.

Happy Birthday "Black Cat", you have been very good to us.

To see more of our designs, go to http://dixdesign.com.

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Boat Plans Wooden | Our Schooner Race on Shearwater 45 Apella

Boat Plans Wooden

The 25th running of the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race proved to be a well-run and memorable event. The weatherman came close to creating big problems but it all worked out in the end. The massive cold front that tore apart parts of USA in the previous week arrived in Baltimore on Wednesday afternoon, dumping enough rain to wash out the planned Parade of Sail through Baltimores Inner Harbor. Other than that, everything went off with the usual smoothness of a well-practiced organisation.

"Apella" alongside "America II" at the start of the 2013 race.

Behind the wind-driven soaking of Wednesday, we were handed a couple of gorgeous days to carry us down to Portsmouth. The weatherman didnt get it all correct though. The forecast light breezes from the south at the start, swinging to westerly for most of the race, held only for the biggest and fastest boats at the front of the fleet. Behind them the wind was sometimes the opposite of the forecast and then fell apart into increasingly large holes that trapped boats for hours. The further back that they were in the fleet, the larger the holes and the longer they battled to get through.

As for us on Dan Halls Shearwater 45 "Apella", we had a pretty good race, one to store in the memory banks for recall in the coming cold winter days when only professional seamen and crazy people are out on the water. We had a good crew, comprising the owner, myself and a bunch of friends who are capable sailors.

Dan Hall, Dudley Dix, Paul Schaub, Dylan Bailey, Tom Miller & Scott Page.

We had a crazy start. Dan was on the helm, labouring under advice from Paul and myself that obviously conflicted with his own thoughts and must have been comical to anyone paying attention to us on nearby boats. Complicated by current, spectator boats and a big boat fleet that started 10 minutes before us but was mostly late to the line, we were dodging boats and going the wrong way within the last minute, yet still managed to cross the start line first, within 10 seconds of the gun and right at the committee boat. As Tom said, "sometimes too many chiefs actually works".

A Class gaff schooner "Hindu", which gave us some close-quarter racing.

We worked our way through much of the big boat fleet and had mostly good sailing all the way down the bay. Most of the time we were lying between 7th and 10th on the water and thoroughly enjoying what we were doing. A highlight of the race was twice managing to get ourselves ahead of the beautiful Baltimore clipper replica "Pride of Baltimore". When the wind came through after we broke out of the hole together, she sailed away from us.

Creeping up on the beautiful "Pride of Baltimore II".

We were in B Class, with our Windmill Point finish line 40 miles short of the Thimble Shoals line for the bigger boats in Classes A and AA. We planned to sail the optional additional 40 miles to claim "bragging rights" but gave up on that idea when the winds went light and onto the nose. Mission accomplished, we whimped out and motored the rest of the way to Portsmouth.

The awards party was today and we came away with first place in B Class, ahead of "Tom Bombadil". A great end to an enjoyable few days. Thank you to the crew of "Apella", all other competitors and especially to the organisers and volunteers who together made this such a successful event.

Tom, Dudley, Paul and Dan with the silverware. Scott & Dylan missed the party.

Dylan has promised to bring his Little Creek 47 "Flutterby" north from St Augustine, Florida, for the 2015 Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race and we will race the bay together again. I look forward to it.

To see our full range of designs, please visit http://dixdesign.com/.


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