Boat Plans Aluminum | Its My Boat Radio Interview

Boat Plans Aluminum

Its My Boat Radio is a weekly online radio program that runs on Blog Talk Radio. Hosts are Barbara Jean Walsh and Ann Avary. They do interviews with people who are experienced boaters or in the boating industry, on a broadening range of subjects.

This week I was invited to participate, on the subject of kit boats. You can listen in to the program by clicking on the link below. It is about 30 minutes and you can listen while doing other stuff. Unlike live radio, if you think that you missed something then you can go back to whatever part you missed and listen again, or go back to the start and listen to the whole program again.

Kit Boats and More! online radio program

Small selection of our plywood kit designs

Plywood kits for our designs

To see our full range of designs, go to http://dixdesign.com/

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Boat Plans Aluminium Australia | S45 Construction John Fisher keel tubes

Boat Plans Aluminium Australia

Photo sequence showing how John Fisher made his keel tubes. He was mounting a keel from CPM (David Ramos) with longer keel bolts so they will go through the deck when finished. He coated the brass rod with carnuba wax as a mold release.

To align the keel tubes John drills the holes in the center of the boat, this is easy to find since it is simply the middle of the king plank and the middle of the two keel planks. Then to align them so they are straight he placed a metal ruler along the two keel bolts or if a flat plate along the plate. Then look at where the end meets the transom. It should be off center by half the amount as the bolts/keel are thick. John does this on both sides to make sure it is centered. Once the bottom is aligned he tacks it in place with CA, then verify the alignment at the deck the same way.

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Boat Plans Bolger | S45 Construction Deck

Boat Plans Bolger

4/19/2007 John Fisher just finished the deck rigging last night on his latest boat. The boat is set up pretty simple. Open loop with elastic. Winch is below deck, but the same rigging setup can be used with an on deck winch, just substitute a turning block for the through deck block.

The sheets go forward to a block on a bridle for the main sheet. The jib sheet and elastic go through a double block attached to the chain plate to keep things from rubbing on the mast, then through an adjustable double block forward. The jib sheet then goes back to a deck mounted block. The elastic is then hooked to a loop on deck. John put a hook in the elastic so he can release tension when in storage.

Chain plates and mast step are laid out per Scott Rowlands tuning guide.





In tweaker photo bellow you can see the tweaker servo and winch mount.



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Boat Trailer Plans Australia | Construction Star 45 Sail Making colored sails sail material

Boat Trailer Plans Australia

Apr 2007 Subject: [Star45] Sails - colors
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From: "Larry Ludwig" mailing list Star45@yahoogroups.com

You can have colored sails. You can make your own from ripstop and the colors are all available. The material is inexpensive enough that even if you do botch the first few attempts its not going to set you back more than $10.00

Learning to make sails teachs you more about TRIMMING sails and the way they take a "set" than sailing a boat ever will.

If you set your mainsail luff as a bolt rope (and you should IMHO) then it takes only a few seconds to pop off your mast head or foot, slide out one sail and slide in the other. Then if your jib is setup as a hook attachment to a hole in the mast, you unhook from the deck, unhook from the mast and voila, you are ready to hook both ends of the 2nd sail and you are complete. You should be able to change the sails on your boat in 2 minutes if you are properly set up. Of course, using a 2nd mast and complete rig is even faster. If you setup so your turnbuckles remain on the deck, then they are ready to go regardless of which rig you chose, and you reduce the cost of a 2nd rig by $40 right there.

Dont discount ripstop sails too much. They may not be all the rage... but I promise you the skipper skill factor is WAY more important than the sail material. I have rip stop sails here that have lasted 20 years, if they are well cared for, they will last. Skippers familiar with the Vic class will remember a Regional Regatta being won with a stock ripstop mainsail last year ( I think it was)

Give it a shot, you wont be sorry you did. *and it DOES look very nice on your boat.
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From: "J Fisher" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have seen people in the 914 fleet use colored markers to color sails. I think it was mostly to tell the boats apart, but there were some interesting designs. You could probably paint your sails as well to get color.
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From: jfisher@wildblue.net I have made a lot of sail and could put together a step by step to make sails.

I use mylar which I buy from www.McMaster.com. They only carry clear, so I sand it to make it translucent. It colors well with markers so that would be one way to make colored sails. To make sails you can use the sail block based on the method provided on the star 45 yahoo groups by John Whitford or you can use the block from great basin, which is based on the Sweede Johnson sail block. I have used the sweede block with good results.
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From: "Larry Ludwig" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

You can make panelled sails, but it is not required. You can get PLENTY of use out of a single panelled sail. They actually have some advantages in high winds because of the less draught. Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. The block method works fine, but also.. is not required. Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) and cut it with a #9 X-acto or scissors. Use seamstress tape and overstitch. Do the same thing with the luff curve, and hem the foot and leech and you are about there. Oversew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers. Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations.

Where to find the material? Nylon ripstop is inexpensive... typically $6-$7 (x 38-50" long bolt) a yard at LONDONs Fabrics or HANCOCK Fabrics, sometimes you will find it at HOBBY LOBBY retail stores, but if you check your local fabric store you will most likely come up with some in various colors. Also using contrasting thread colors can make the sail more attractive. Start with a single panel sail and go through all the steps. When you are ready to start making paneled sails... dont be afraid to make them out of paper first. Typical brown paper can be cut and taped together and makes a perfect mock up of the sail for pennies.
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From: "Al Stein" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Star45] Re: Sails - colors

I think I got mine from Potomac Sailmakers in Alexandria, Virginia... I bought yellow and orange, but they had a bunch of different colors in spinnaker cloth, and very light weight and airtight it is.

Its fairly stiff, too, for as light as it is -- something well under an ounce per yard. Price about the same as Larry experienced... less than $10 a running yard from a BIG WIDE bolt (cant remenber exact width, but it was much wider than normal fabric store goods.
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From: "John & Kelly" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have built US One Meter sails from spinnaker cloth purchased from Sailrite.

I used .5 oz which is only available in red, white, and blue, but .75 oz is available in a multitude of colors.

The part I like best about these materials is you can buy a role of C3 spinnaker tape (pricey at $25.00) and build a set of sails without sewing a stitch.

They actually use C3 to tape together the body seams of full scale spinnakers so Im pretty sure it can take just about anything a model can throw at it.

Ive built two sets of sails and only used about 10% of my role of tape so that $25.00 will go a long way.

At about $12.00 a yard, spinnaker cloth is twice the cost of fabric store ripstop, but spinnaker cloth is coated with resin that makes it far more stable and eliminates all porosity (wind can blow right through ripstop). I also havent tried using C3 on plain ripstop, so I cant say how the bond will hold up.

For cutting fabric like this Id use a hot knife. I bought a $4.00 40watt soldering iron at the local mega-mart, removed the tip, hammered it flat, and put it back in. Cutting works best over a smooth heat resistant surface. I use my glass topped kitchen table (when my wifes not home).
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Boat Plans For A Chesapeake Deadrise | Didi 950 Construction Starts

Boat Plans For A Chesapeake Deadrise

Michael Vermeersch has started building his Didi 950 prototype in Ravenna, Ohio. This is the prototype of a very new design. Micheal is building from a pre-cut kit that we supplied and reports that the quality and fit have been excellent thus far.

Didi 950 Kit, ready for unpacking

 Yesterday Michael and a friend set up the bulkheads on the building stocks and he is now preparing to fit the backbone components to tie the bulkheads together.

Didi 950 Bulkheads set up and waiting for backbone.

This design has been drawn to comply with the Class 950 Class Rules. Watch this space for progress reports on this boat and the other Didi 950s being built in Australia, Latvia and Greece.

Please note that precut kits for our plywood designs supplied in USA must be ordered from Dudley Dix Yacht Design and not from the company that cuts them, Chesapeake Light Craft. For more info and pricing go to our plywood kits page.

To see our full range of designs please visit http://dixdesign.com/ .

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Boat Designs And Plans | S45 Construction templates for laminating rudder

Boat Designs And Plans

Rudder templates for a Star45 Class sailing model.The grid shown is set for 1/4 inch squares. So if you print the templates you can check the size by making sure the grid yields a 1/4 inch square.

This set of templates are based on drawing from John Fisher. John may have new and updated drawings available. Check with http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=star45 membership required.

I want to thank J. Herrmann, www.graphicLanguageOnline.com, for his assistance in converting pdfs to jpg drawing, adding color to the templates and adding the grid to the final images.

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Boat Plans Bartender | Sailing Model AMYA Star45 Class Construction Deck s Hatches

Boat Plans Bartender

from John Fisher:
Attaching deck to hull

John Fisher photographer

Hull with deck mounted:

John Fisher photographer

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HATCHES:

From Phil Geren:
The simplest hatch cover solution I have found for Star 45 is to cut a piece out of Presentation Cover vinyl, which cut-out is shaped like the hatch opening but 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch larger on all sides. Then, apply electricians tape (1/2 or 3/4" wide) all around the perifery, so that half the tape is on the vinyl and half is hanging over the edge.

Presentation Cover vinyl which I get at Office Depot is about 15 cents a sheet; it is about 0.008" thick; it is slightly over 8.5X11" in size; a full sheet weighs about 16 grams; it is stiff, but flexible; it is crystal clear, but if you want it opaque, just wet sand it with #400 grit wet or dry sandpaper.

Position the hatch cover over the hatch so that the tape extends evenly past the hatch opening an equal distance all around, and then just press on the tape to stick it to the deck. Its waterproof, durable.

You can make spares and stick them to another piece of vinyl and carry that with you to the races. That keeps spares nice and flat and keeps the tapes sticky side clean for future use. A set of these hatch covers usually lasts me all season. At lunch, I take one cover off to allow the boat to dry out, sticking the cover to a dry vinyl sheet to keep the tapes sticky side clean.

Photo is Star 45 #778, freshly rebuilt for the Nationals this year, and a set of covers on the floor next to her.

Phil Geren photographer

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from Uncle Dave:
I pulled one of my old Star45s from the attic and have it here in my workshop. It has a fiberglass Sirius 45 hull, a aircraft ply deck and aluminum keel fin. Unfortunately it is not one of my finest examples of workmanship or painting. However Ill suffer the embarrassment and use if to show some one style of hatch construction.

Carrying around a model around out of the water is no big deal. Taking a model out of the water can be something else. You first need to hang onto the model. Then find a place to take hold to lift the model. This is one of the reasons I have used easily removable hatches. You can grab the model through the hatch, fingers under the deck and pick it up. Of course a thin ply deck the model deck and hatch construction needs to be strong enough to withstand pulling on the deck and lifting a twelve pound plus model. Therefore I braced my decks around hatch areas.

First I built a flanged frame for the hatch to sit in that also extended under the deck and attached to the deck bracing.


Then I built a hatch cover based on the size of the hatch. Initially the hatch cover was made to fit very loosely in the hatch. I then took some silicone (tub seal or similar) squeezed a bead around the shelf/lip of the hatch. The covering the hatch opening with food wrap poly sheeting Id push the hatch cover in place down into the silicone. This made a nice water tight gasket around the edge of the hatch. After waiting a day Id remove the plastic, trim and silicone that showed topside. With the silicone dry, pop the hatch cover in place and check the fit.



I placed a strip of magnetic tape on either end of the cover and on each end of the hatch frame.



When the hatch cover and hatch mag tapes touched they pulled together. This magnetic tape is neat stuff you can pop the cover in place and it will stay put.

Typically I made my hatches about 4"X5" giving me plenty of deck to the sheer.


I heavy weather if the model might go over on beams end Id cover the seams with tape just to be extra watertight. A 4X5 hatch gives room to get inside, adjust winch, radio etc, and to remove any water that got into the bilge while sailing.

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Boat Plans For A Chesapeake Deadrise | What is a hull and construction categories

Boat Plans For A Chesapeake Deadrise

Dave Mainwarings definitions

HULL defintion of:
The outer shell, including frames, ribs, interior bulkheads, exclusive of masts, rigging, deck and equipment.



"bare hull" defintion of:
A model boats outer shell, EXCLUDING, ribs, interior bulkheads, exclusive of masts, rigging, deck and equipment. Example. A fiberglass hull as pulled from a mold.

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A wooden hull:
one constructed of wood (including plywood).

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A glass hull:
one constructed of reinforced plastic (cloth impregnated with resin). Nominally referred to as a fiberglass hull.

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A composite hull:
a hull constructed of wood and covered with reinforced plastic (cloth impregnated with resin).
OR:
a hull constructed using a laminate (sandwich) consisting of reinforced plastic (cloth impregnated with resin) on two sides of a core . Core materials may be foam or wood.

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Yacht Boat Plans | Didi 950 Build Bottom Skin Panels

Yacht Boat Plans

Mike Vermeerschs amateur boatbuilding project of a Didi 950 is moving on to the next stage, with bottom panels fitted and work starting on the side panels. Mike is building from a plywood kit that we supplied to him and reports that the fit is good. The kit has jigsaw joints on all large panels, making them easy to assemble either on the floor or on the boat.

Didi 950 with all stringers installed.

Two of the stringers each side, at the junctions between flat and radiused skin areas, have plywood doublers attached to serve as backing pads to the joint. I call these the tangent stringers. The doubler on the upper tangent stringer is in process of being fitted and can be seen running forward from the transom through to the third bulkhead from aft.

In the photo below, the transom has been fitted, followed by the bottom panels. These panels each have two transverse jigsaw joints and join each other at a centreline butt joint over the plywood backbone. In the photo the jigsaw joints have temporary battens over them to secure them while the glue is setting.

Bottom panels fitted.

Mike has also started to dry-fit the side panels ahead of gluing in place. At the right of the photo the forward lower panel can be seen and which will continue through to the transom. The lower edge, as seen upside-down like this, forms one half of the chine. The other half of the chine will be formed by the upper side panel.

Today Mikes 300lb brother decided to test the hull stiffness of this partially-built Didi 950 . He climbed onto the bottom of the boat and jumped on the bottom panels. They passed his improvised test but I think that I would have recommended that he wait until the whole hull was skinned before doing such a test.

Mikes 300lb brother tests the Didi 950 hull stiffness.

The broad stringer that shows on this photo is the upper tangent that will join the lower side panel to the radius.

To see our other designs, visit http://dixdesign.com/ .

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Boat Plans Skiff | star 45 construction double diagonal planked hull

Boat Plans Skiff

Model Sail Boat Building, How To Build A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model

star 45 construction | double diagonal planked hull
From: "John Fisher"

Here are some photos of Sherwood Jones Star 45 with double diagonal bottom planking. He used two layers of 1/16 planking. The planks are 1" wide. He then covered it with 1 ½oz glass. Weight is about the same as mine with the 1/16 longitudinal planks and two layers of 3.2 oz glass. Just goes to show that there are multiple ways to solve a problem.

John

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Kayak Boat Plans | Woode boat Construction glues and adhesives

Kayak Boat Plans

John F. Howard (Star-45 discussion forum, July 31, 2006)

"Gorilla Glue does foam a bit, but nothing like foam-in-a-can and has minimum stink. Forget trying to smooth things out, the foam is very, very sticky and keeps growing until it sets up (about an hour) at which point it will still be a little soft (keep clamped for 3-4 hours). Any squeeze/foam out once hard, can be cut, chiseled or sanded smooth. Run a strip of tape along the edge of the glue line and most of the foam out will end up on the tape. The best joints are tight ones that use a minimum of glue. For narrow or thin pieces (planking), squeeze out a little puddle (just enough to use in 15-20 minutes) and use a Popsicle stick to spread along the edges. Wear gloves, the stuff stains and is sticky. GG is great for laminating larger areas (spread with an old credit card or playing card)."

"If you use epoxy resin such as West Systems (best, you can adjust the cure rate with the different hardeners) or one of the 30-minute or longer (5-15 minute never gets hard and remains rubbery) such as sold by Great Planes or Tower, stink will not be a problem. The polyester resin does STINK in a big way, it what you can smell in a new fiberglass hull.
CA glues are ok for "tacking" stuff in place until the epoxy sets up, but watch the fumes. CA will fail if used in a wet location for long and also cause a problem with the wood accepting stain. Work with plenty of ventilation and or respirator and wear gloves with any of the above glues and resins, staining of the skin and sensitivity, either skin and or breathing can occur."

"These are base on my experience with the glues mentioned (full size boats, cabinet work and models). Yellow glue such as Titebond or Elmers Carpenter Wood Glue (not waterproof) works fine when encapsulated with epoxy (cedar strip canoe builders use it all the time)."

{ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Star45/ }

Phil Geren adds a warning note about Glue Fumes:
I have a serious allergic reaction to CA fumes - causes fluid to build up in the lungs, like pneumonia. I still use it, but with a fan blowing air between me and the work. Trying to avoid it.

Phil Geren on Gorilla Glue:2006 August 1
Is it rock hard or rubbery when dry?
I bought some, but have the same reservations as Dave M about foaming, trimming, and sanding. If it doesnt sand well, the finished product wont be as good as what I am aiming for.

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Boat Plans Arch Davis | S45 Model Boat construction Sail Control Units

Boat Plans Arch Davis

installing the radio tray for an under deck winch, jib tweaker, and rudder servo. From John Fisher:



The radio tray is 1/16 ply backed up with 1/8 X 3/8 spruce or basswood. Note the glassing at the ends. This adds a lot of strength to the joint and John highly recommend adding it. John uses 1" wide glass tape cut in half, then sprayed with 3M77 so it will stay in place for gluing. Then a dab of your favorite epoxy and you are done.






sheet through deck mount.


jib tweaker turn around. The part is a 180 deg sheet lead from great basin.



See also http://woodstar45.blogspot.com/2006/10/blog-post_116031550255831231.html
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From: David Ramos To: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 10:23 am
The following photos show my set up for a drum servo and jib tweaker.

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Note:
One major advantage of building from a fiberglass hull is the open space inside the hull. David Ramos offers workmanship second to none.

Dave Mainwaring
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http://www.rcyachts.com/STAR45/P1010084.JPG


http://www.rcyachts.com/STAR45/P1010082.JPG


Main sheet is 2:1 and jib sheet is 1:1

Hope this helps
David Ramos
Chesapeake Performance Models
227 Main Street
Stevensville, MD 21666
david@rcyachts.com
www.rcyachts.com

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