Boat Plans Pdf | Beautiful Shearwater 45 Available

Boat Plans Pdf

The Shearwaters are boats of which I feel proud. They are very pretty, they are capable in all weather conditions and they are fast. The Shearwater 39 has an enviable reputation as one of the most seaworthy designs ever to come out of South Africa, a country that is known to have some of the most severe sailing waters in the world. These boats turn heads wherever they go, partly because they are so pretty and partly because they sail past many boats that look faster.

Shearwater 39 "Shoestring III" on launch day.

The Shearwater 45 grew naturally out of the reputation that was earned by the 39 and was developed out of the moulds of the 39. It has more length with no freeboard increase and with very little extra beam. The resulting boat is very sleek and gracious to look at and it gained a surprising boost of speed that allows it to outsail most boats of equal size and many that are up to 25% longer. In gaining that speed it has lost nothing of the seaworthy characteristics of the smaller sister. What it did gain is greater responsiveness and fingertip steering due to the change from a semi-balanced transom-hung rudder to a balanced spade rudder.

Shearwater 45 sailing on Chesapeake Bay.

We have good examples of both of these designs available on our brokerage pages. The most recent to come available is the gorgeous 45 "Maggy May". She is lying in the Caribbean and is fully equipped, maintained in top condition and ready to cruise to anywhere that you care to go. She is only being sold due to serious illness of the owner. To view "Maggy May" and the other Shearwaters that we have listed, go to http://dixdesign.com/brokerdd.htm.

Please visit our website at http://dixdesign.com/.

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Boat Plans Pdf | Passage door update

Boat Plans Pdf

All the passage doors are built with three of them hung in the openings.

Like I said in my last post I decided upon mortise and tenon construction for these doors. Just to give an extra added bit of strength to the joint, I through pinned each joint with two 3/8" wood dowels. The day I needed the dowels ( more of my great scheduling skills), I went over to the wood working supply store to get a few things and some Cherry dowels. The store was out of Cherry dowels, and in my haste to get a door assembled, I decided to make the dowel a design element, and went with Walnut dowels. The dowels all but guarantee the joints will never pull apart, and to be honest with you, I like the dark contrast of the walnut dowel. I think the doors will really pop once I have some finish on them. In order to prevent blowing out the back of the door while drilling the dowel, I clamped a block of wood where the drill exited the door.

The door project has put a serious hurting on my pile of air dried Cherry lumber, and Im going to have to harvest a tree or two before too long so I can have dry lumber by next summer. I really do not have enough time to air dry by next summer, so I might be building a solar kiln late this winter to speed things up. In order to save lumber, I decided to buy a sheet of 3/4" Cherry veneer plywood, rip the jamb stock off of the ply, then miter the stock back against itself to make it look like a solid board for the jambs. This worked out well ( more of a suggestion from Captain Ted of LTS Builders), and only took me an hour to rip all the plywood, miter all the end caps and glue and nail theme together. All told I fabricated ten jambs in an hour. I used my brad nailer to pin the miter pieces while the glue set up. You will not see the nail holes as I held the nails away from the miter, and my door casing, with its 1/4" reveal, will cover the nails.

The lumber pile is for sure on the down hill side of the ride, so I had to use some pieces that had a few flaws. My biggest concern regarding lumber quality was finding straight grain, and no cracks or checks. The styles and rails are 4" wide, and while it seems it would be easy, finding ten, six foot long pieces, that I could mill into the correct width with no cracks was a challenge. So given those search parameters, I used some pieces with bad knots. A bad knot is what I call a dead branch knot, meaning a dead branch created the knot. Dead branch knots will fall out or have rot around them. I dealt with the knots by routing them out the same way a dentist would remove a cavity, I then filled the excavation with a Dutchman patch. I really like the character the Dutchman patch gives the piece, and like not having to waste wood. I built five doors and I had to make four Dutchman patches.

Im pre-hanging the doors on my plywood jambs the same way a pre hung doors comes to any building site. I should have the doors hung and cased by the end of the week, then Ill get some finish on them.

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Boat Plans Stitch And Glue | Update on OkoumeFest

Boat Plans Stitch And Glue

It was a very long day but well worth the effort. We left home at 4am, arrived at the venue by 9am and had the first boat sailing by about 10:30. The two Paper Jets attracted a lot of attention and more people sailed my boat in one day than have sailed her in 6 years. Those who sailed her seemed very impressed, despite the generally light breezes and lumpy water. The lump was generated by wind elsewhere on the bay that wasnt reaching us.

Two Paper Jets nested for towing.

Paper Jet #007 rigged and ready to go.

Two happy sailors return to the beach.

 We finished the day with a visit from South Africans Terry and Greg Clarens, ex Durban but now based in Annapolis. They took the two boats out on the late afternoon breeze with flat water and possibly had the best sailing of the day.

A few people commented about the beautiful detailing and woodwork of the two boats. They have on occasion been described as works of art or sculptures. This was part of the overall design concept and is one of the aspects that make these boats so eye-catching. My aim was to create detailing that would encourage builders to be proud of their work and to strive for a higher standard. Despite being thoroughly modern in shape, the rig details include features more normally found on traditional gaff-rigged craft. These include lashings, soft-eyes and birdsmouth wooden spars that are oh so pretty.

Thanks to all who came to CLC OkoumeFest and particularly those who test-sailed our boats.

To see our full range of designs, go to http://dixdesign.com



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Plywood Boat Plans Australia | Water Tanks

Plywood Boat Plans Australia

My current boat ( 28 Carver Mariner) has a whopping 25 gallon water tank and Im amazed at how long we can make that 25 gallons last. On the current boat we use water primarily for washing dishes and an occasional quick shower. The head on the Carver is raw water flushed so we dont tap into that precious 25 gallon supply.

The water tanks on the trawler ( I guess Im going to have to name her soon so I stop calling her the " trawler ") are constructed out of stainless steel. I went with stainless steel vs plastic for a few reasons. Stainless is considered top of the line in regard to potable water tanks. Due to where Im placing the tanks it made more sense for me to fabricate the tanks vs having them fabricated out of plastic. I used 14 gauge 316L for fabricating the tanks. All the associated fittings for the tanks are 3/4 NPT stainless ( fill, vent, supply) couplers welded in place. All the tanks have one center baffle running across the width of the tank. The tanks fit between the frames of the forward area so the tanks have to fit into a 30" wide space. Because of the 2" flange I welded on to the frames I had to make the tanks 27" in width to give me a little room for the install. I might be kicking myself in the ass years down the road, but I decided to not install inspection covers in the tanks. I have a total of 8 tanks giving me approximately 350 gallons of water.

The tanks are held in place with a flange welded on to the front and back of each tank. The forward mounting system consists of a bracket welded to the hull with 3/8 studs welded to that bracket. The forward tank flange fits over those 4 studs and is bolted down. The rear mounting system consists of a similar bracket only I welded nuts to that bracket and used four 3/8 bolts through the tank flange to mount the rear part of each tank. I used studs on the forward mounting system because the bracket is so deep it was easier to get a nut started vs getting a bolt started. It was also easier installing the tank by dropping the tank over the studs then having a little wiggle room to get the bolts started in rear of the tank. For 3/8 studs and bolts I drilled the corresponding mounting flange to 1/2 " and used thick washers for the mount. I made a gasket out of flexible PVC to help isolate the tank bottom from the mounting brackets ( no metal to metal contact other than the mounting hardware). I allowed myself 4" of clearance between the front of the tank and the center longitudinal frame ( center spine). 4" of clearance was barely enough room, as it is a tight fit to get my arm in there. All the tank mounting hardware is stainless steel

To supply water to the pump I welded a 3/4 stainless coupler in the the bottom of each tank. Having given this a little more thought I now wish I had used a pick up tube entering the top of the tank and going to the bottom. Too late for the pick up tube method now, but again I wish I had gone that route. So each tank has a coupler welded in for supply, followed by a gate valve for each tank,followed by a "T" for each tank, all of this terminates into a common supply line leading to the pump. I went with this set up so I could isolate each tank vs all eight tanks having a shared liquid level. If I ever have a catastrophic failure of a tank, I can take that tank off line and not loose all my water. I also have the choice of just filling a couple of tanks if I want. Since I am able to isolate the supply side of the tanks, I also have to be able to isolate the vent side of the tanks. All the vents will terminate at a manifold that can be valved before venting at the wheel house deck above the fill point. The tanks will fill from two points on the wheel house deck via port or starboard fill pipes. Because of the large cabin and wheel house roof areas Im making provisions to be able catch water off the roof to fill the tanks.

I air tested each tank to 6 psi as this will be more than the static head the tanks will see once the vent tube fills to the deck level. After I fabricated the tanks I installed them to check fit and make sure all my brackets would work so I could start the interior painting. If I had been a little more careful with my measuring and fabricating I could have squeezed another 50 gallons of storage in my system, but all in all Im happy with 350 gallons.

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Boat Plans Canada | Didi 950 Build Started

Boat Plans Canada

Michael Vermeersch of Ohio commissioned the Didi 950 design and has now started construction of his boat. He is building from a pre-cut plywood kit that was supplied by Chesapeake Light Craft in Annapolis. The kit arrived as 61 sheets of plywood with all components accurately cut by CNC router and packed on 2 pallets.

Michael reports that he is progressing well with the assembly of the backbone and bulkheads and that everything is fitting together beautifully. A few more bulkheads to go, then he will be ready to start setting up on the building stocks.

Michael with wife Pat & daughter Catherine.

Since adding this design to our stock design list, another three boats have been started. They are in Australia, Greece and Latvia.

The Didi 950 is drawn to the Class 950 Rule and detailed for building by the radius chine plywood construction method. It can be built from plans only or from a kit. Kits are currently available in USA but can be supplied by most of our international kit suppliers as well. Enquire with the supplier in your area and I will send the files to them for pricing. Note that for USA you must order from us, you cannot order it directly from Chesapeake Light Craft.

For our full range of designs, please visit http://dixdesign.com/.

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Canoe Boat Plans | Photos for 2014 Calendar

Canoe Boat Plans

I am starting work on our 2014 calendar and I am still looking for a few more photos to complete the 12 months plus cover that I need. If you have any nice  photos of your boat of our design that you would like to be featured in this edition, please send them to me. The boat doesnt have to be sailing or even in the water yet. If the photo is clear and interesting then we might use it. It also needs to be at least 300dpi resolution, preferably more.

Cover from 2013 Calendar, with Italian Dix 38 "Imagine".

August photo, Challenger 13 in Lithuania.

Boat size is not important, as long as the photo is interesting and high quality. We even have our smallest design, the Dixi Dinghy in the 2013 calendar in a photo that caught my attention.

To see our range of boat designs, please go to http://dixdesign.com/ .

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Pontoon Boat Plans Aluminum | Spring Break

Pontoon Boat Plans Aluminum

Work on the boat had to stop for a couple of weeks while we took the family to the Florida Keys for a Spring break vacation.

When we hit the road leaving from Ohio it was raining and 36 degrees. When we arrived in Little Torch Key twenty hours later, it was sunny and 88 degrees. To be honest with you, it really hasnt stopped raining since we left for Florida as our part of the world has just recorded the wettest month on record( April).

We rented a house on Little Torch Key. The house was on the water with the rear facing due east. It was nice watching the sun come up while drinking coffee on the back porch with Shannon.

While the time away from the Ohio winter was not long enough, our time in Florida sure did help re charge some batteries. I plan on getting back to the keys, but the next time will be while we are cruising on the trawler.

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Boat Plans Canada | Update on Didi 26 14

Boat Plans Canada

I designed the Didi 26 in 1997 and sold the first plans in 1998. I had drawn it as a speculative design, with no customer to commission it but a bunch of people asking about that concept. I went ahead and drew it to fill the needs that were most often requested. Along with that it also had to fit into an Australian trailer-sailer rule that existed at the time, did not gain a following and died a few years later.One of the first to be launched was "Butterfly", built by Ake Unander in Malbo, Sweden. Ake built her in a carport alongside his home.

The hull of "Butterfly", coming out into the snow to be turned upright.

"Butterfly" being towed to launch by a VW Golf

"Butterfly" on an early sail, in breezy conditions.

Last week I received an email from Ake. He still enjoys sailing "Butterfly", although he has toned her down somewhat by replacing her bright yellow livery with a more sedate white. He has also modified the cockpit and interior to better suit his advancing age and has replaced the retracting bowsprit with a shorter fixed sprit and furling headsail, making her easier to sail single-handed. I am very much in favour of these personal modifications because the whole point of a boat is to go sailing and you will do more sailing if you are comfortable with your boat.

A recent photo of "Butterfly" in relaxed mode on Lake Vättern

Thank you Ake, for building "Butterfly" and for using her as she was intended to be used.

To see more of this and our other designs, please visit http://dixdesign.com/

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Yacht Boat Plans | Bilge pumps

Yacht Boat Plans

To date, I have three bilge pumps on board. Basically, one bilge pump for each of my three water tight compartments. One pump in the cabin area, one pump in the engine room, and one pump in the lazarette. The pumps in the engine room and cabin area are 1 1/2" discharge, 3700 GPH Rule pumps with Water Witch sensors for the switch. The pump in the lazarette is a 1 1/8" discharge, Rule 1500 GPH. I have also made provisions in my hydraulic circuit to have on board a hydraulic pump rated @ 11,000 GPH. The hydraulic pump will be plumbed in to the engine room and forward cabin compartments, and I will direct which compartment it is to pump out via a valve and manifold. The 11,000 GPH hydraulic pump is a two inch discharge. The pumps all have an automatic float switch along with a manual switch. The pumps will have a control panel at the helm that alarms when water is high and an indicator light telling me if the pump is running. Its pretty easy and inexpensive to install an event counter on the pump, and that might be another handy device to have on board.

On past boats Ive owned, bilge pump access has always been one of my pet peeves, and production builders seem not to care about ease of access. On this boat, Ive tried to make all systems components within easy reach, and have avoided burying components to a point that maintenance becomes difficult. The bilge pump in the cabin area and lazarette are extremely easy to access and Im happy with their placement. The 3600 GPH pump in the engine room is a different story, but I think I came up with a good solution to make this pump easy to service.

Hindsight being 20/20, I wish I would have moved the main engine forward in the boat by 8 or 10 inches. I placed the main engine as far forward to the center of the boat as possible, leaving the engine 8" off of the main bulkhead. That 8" separation gives me enough room to remove the belt guard bolts and be able to service/replace the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The problem is that 8" really does not give me enough room to access the bilge pump which is under the engine, on the port side, and up against the bulkhead. The real problem is that the bilge under the engine mounts, is over 24" deep, and making pump connections will be extremely difficult at best. The other issue complicating this job is that all the hydraulic lines for the steering, bow thruster, and anchor winch penetrate the water tight bulkhead in this area, so access is not only tight, but it is crowded. The hydraulic lines received the premium real estate in the bilge and penetrate the bulkhead at a high elevation which makes them relatively easy to connect.

The solution I came up with for the engine room bilge pump was to make a bracket on a post and mount the pump to that. The pump mounting post then screws to the bulkhead wall. I installed plywood on both engine room bulkheads, and that decision is paying some dived-ens given the amount of equipment Ive attached to the bulkheads without worrying about hitting a nailer. The flexible 1 1/2" bilge pump discharge line is already connected through the bulkhead before I lower the pump in to place. I make the pump to discharge connection while the pump is out of the bilge, make the wire connections, then lower the pump on its bracket in to the bilge, and bolt the bracket to the bulkhead with four screws. Removal or installation of the pump takes less than a few minutes. The thing I like about this way of mounting the pump is that if I event suspect the pump has a chance to get oil fouled due to work being done in the engine room, I can easily lift it out of harms way, do my work, then easily and quickly replace it. I have about five or six hours in making the bracket and tweeking it, but for me, this is time well spent. I know the older I get, the more difficult it is going to be to cram myself in tight places, and being able to easily service this pump will make life on board much more user friendly. Now that Ive had the pump in and out of the bilge a few times, Im totally happy with this set up as its a breeze to make the pump connections while the pump is sitting on the engine room doors threshold.

For the lazzarette pump and forward cabin pump, I fabricated some stainless steel brackets. The pump base bolts to the bracket and the pump snaps to the pump base. I tapped threads the metal the fabricated bracket screws to so I could use 10-24 stainless machine screws to mount the bracket. These pumps are easy to access by so no fancy post contraption needed to be fabricated.

I kind of frown on boats that have a rats nest of wire and wire nuts dangling in the bilge for the wire connections on bilge pumps. I decided that I want all my wire connections in a good junction box, so thats what I did. For me, its all about future maintenance and not having to contort myself for basic service work.

I dont have the hydraulic crash pump installed and probably wont have it for a few years. Ive made all the plumbing preparations for the pump in regard to the bulkhead penetrations, and the hydraulic circuit. This pump, more than likely, will not get installed until we get the boat in to the gulf a few years from now.

The engine room bilge pump and forward cabin pump discharges along side the water tank fill manifold on the port side of the boat. The discharge lines loop 12" above the discharge port then drop back down to the discharge port. The discharge port is 12" above the water line.

Im using a drippless seal for my prop shaft, so Im planning on a dry bilge in the engine room. Given the boat is steel, I feel as having dusty bilges is a realistic goal. And while I feel as if I will probably never use my bilge pumps, I want a good installation that is easy to service and maintain so when the day comes that the pumps are needed, I can rely on my end of the work as not contributing to a failure.

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Boat Plans Canada | An update of sorts

Boat Plans Canada

During my absence from the blogging on my boat build, Ive come to the conclusion thats is a darn tough thing to get work done on a boat while its in the water. While the suns still making its late afternoon descent, we find ourselves on the foredeck sitting in comfy chairs, using the shadow of the Portuguese  bridge to keep the sun off our skin. As the sun starts to duck behind the western hills of the Ohio River, we move to the aft deck to see how many shades of purple the setting produces this particular night. Maybe well see the solitary Loon thats called this part of the river its home while it searches for the last meal of the day. Either way, its easier to watch the river slip by than work on the boat.

While I do love the idle time, I still like to keep buys albeit at my own pace, so I have been getting some smaller projects off the list. The decks took a beating from welding the super structure on along with the myriad of other work I had to do, so I was glad once I got more paint on them. I gave the decks a good scrubbing using scotch bright pads and warm water, then hosed them down. A day later, after they were sufficiently dry, I rolled on the same acrylic urethane I used for all my exterior paint. The paint is pricey at $175.00 per gallon, but worth every penny in my book as its proven to be tough as touted. The only problem is its also about as slippery as a paint can be once it gets wet. Next spring, were going to put down a non skid deck paint of a slightly darker color. Along with getting the decks final painted, I also was able to paint the weld zones where the super structure welded to the hull.

The wheel house trim is 99% complete with me having fabricated the faux beam that runs down the center line of the wheel house and also is the chase for getting wires to the mast. I say 99% complete because I still have to build a small cabinet above the companion way.

The blue sea distribution panel is 100% operational, with all the functioning breakers labeled and all the blank spots covered with blue sea blank covers. I should say that this panel is one of my most favorite pieces of equipment on board, and has been nothing but great to work on. The way the panel is back lit along with the back  lit labels, its reassuring to glance at it during the night and be able to quickly see the state of things.

I finally finished wiring the automatic charging relay a few weeks ago, and while were only taking short day trips, Im totally happy with how its working. The engine room ventilation fan pulls about 10 amps, and before I had the house bank connected to the alternator via the ACR, I always kept my eye on the house bank anemometer. The house bank is big enough where that 10 amp ventilator isnt going to kill it in a day, but it did give me something to think about. Now that the ACR is wired and working, its nice to glance down at the house bank meter and see amps going in vs being drawn out.

The composting toilet in the lower head has been disappointing, while the Raritan fresh water flush in the salon day head has been stellar. We have to many bodies on board for a composter to effectively, so next spring its going to get replaced with another Raritan.

The PYI drip-less seal has been a good piece of gear as our bilges are dusty. Ive never owned a boat or been on a boat that has as dry of bilges as we have. Ive heard about dry bilge boats but Ive never really seen one until our steel boat. Its big time nice and easy to have dust in ones bilge vs nasty, funky, water.

I wish I had given more attention to cabin ventilation. Because the air conditioner is on board, but not hooked up, weve had to rely upon using fans to get fresh air in to the below deck cabins. I have one axial fan pulling air into our cabin, but will have to add another over the winter. It would be for sure nice to be able to adequately ventilate our cabin passively, but the way the boat is designed makes it difficult. The 300 cfm axial fan does a good job, but another will be needed. We  have two  marine air conditioners on board, but theyre not operational yet, so total comfort will wait another season.

My only real complaints about the boat are the lack of headroom going from the salon to the wheel house. Ducking through this area is second nature to us, but I do have to warn friends on board to watch their head.  My other complaint is the steepness of the steps leading down to the below deck cabins. The headroom in the boat is great, and getting down to point B from point A is the whole rise over run thing thats just another compromise on a boat.
 
A few things we added that were not on the original design was the day head in the salon which has turned out to be a great amenity, and one I would ask any one building this model to consider. Another add I did on my own was making the aft deck larger by moving the aft bulkhead forward one station ( 30"). Having an aft deck large enough for a grill, four chairs and a small table make the boat that much bigger. The salon is still very large and easily accommodates our crew, so this move has proven to be a success.

Our harbor closes down in three weeks, and Ive already scheduled to be hauled out the first Monday in November. The boat build will pick up steam again once shes on the hard and Winter finds us. Projects for the winter are to get the hydraulic system up and running. Fabricate the mast and handrails for above. Complete the marine air installations. Cabinets for the engine room. Shelves for the lazarette. Add ballast forward. Raise the generator exhaust outlet pipe along with the aft water line paint. Figure out what the noise is coming from the stern tube bearing ( Vesconite ).

Like I was saying a few short months ago, I need another year to finish her up, and realistically a bit longer. Were already planning a two week cruise for next summer, wanting to take her down to Kentucky lake, so I guess Ill be rushing around again next spring trying to get all the things I did not get competed over the winter so shell be ready for a May launch. Deja vu all over again.

Cheers

 

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Boat Plans Aluminium Australia | Fuel transfer system complete

Boat Plans Aluminium Australia

The fuel transfer system is complete, and I dont have to do any more work on it. Well, I guess a persons definition of "any more work" should be discussed over a beer sometime. I do have to decide which electrical circuit I am going to use and make that connection. I only have one circuit ran to the engine room so far ( lights) , but Im going to be installing some more circuits in the next week or so as I am beginning to do some design with Kevin Morin ( www.metalboatbuilding.org) on the electrical system.

I backed my service truck in to the shop and pumped 30 or so gallons of fuel into tank #4 . I temporarily wired a plug end on to the fuel pump transfer switch and once I made sure I had the correct valves open ( I need to label the tanks), I turned the pump on. It took a about a minute for the pump to pick up the fuel, but once the the fuel hit the flow meter the sound of the pump changed and the flow meter started clicking off tenths of gallons. It felt good to finally have a system up and running.

To make sure things were as they appeared, I checked the amperage draw on the pump. The pump is only pulling 5 amps, which is lower than its full load rating. I also ran the pump for five minutes to check the flow rate. The flow rate of the pump is just about 220 gallons per hour based on my five minute run time. The flow rate I measured is is exactly as advertised by the manufacturer. The 1000 series Racor filter is rated at 190 gallons per hour maximum flow, so I have to figure out what is happening with the measured flow rate of the pump and the maximum flow rate the filter is advertised as capable of. At a first glance, I would have figured that the filter can only physically allow 190 gallons per hour of flow through it given the micron size of the filter media. I might put in a call to Racor and ask their opinion. A gate valve would choke down the flow rate and give the pump some head to work against. Ive always felt that pumps live longer if they have some head to push against.

I want to install a vacuum gauge on the filter to monitor when it begins to clog. I think Ive seen Racors with a vacuum gauge in the "T" handle, and given how Ive plumbed things, that looks like a good option.

After I had ran the electric pump for a half hour or so, I closed a valve, and opened the two valves for the emergency manual transfer pump. I pumped about five gallons to see how it worked, and Im pleased to say it worked fine. I will say that whenever one of the kids makes it to ye ole shit list, they can meet me in the engine room to manually transfer a 100 gallons of fuel.

It really feels good to finally have a system up and running. Because I now have all the fuel pipe work completed, some of the smaller jobs will begin to fall in to place. I can now install the generator in its final resting spot vs rolling it around the engine room on 3/4" pvc pipe. Once the generator is set, I can finish the conduit run for my AC in the engine room, and so on and so on....

Now that I have fuel running through the tanks, I will continue on my schedule and build the fuel system for the main engine and generator. This is not nearly as complex or costly as the transfer system, so hopefully Ill have that up and running in a week. Ill fire the engine once I have all the fuel parts in place.

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